American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Kerckhoff Dome, "Pinup"

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Kerckhoff Dome, “Pinup." In March Brian Cox, Ian and Darien Raistrick and I made a new route on the south face of Kerckhoff Dome. We began on a slabby wall directly beneath a gaping chimney high on the wall above. About 150 feet left of “Centerfold” (A.A.J., 1973, p. 425), we climbed a small rib up to a blind F10 layback and finally belayed on a ledge beneath a prominent arching overhang. Then an awkward move took us over the roof to a small stance. Rather than climb into a bottomless off-width crack, we aided an 80-foot A2 to A3 crack to the top of a pedestal. By very tenuous face climbing, we gained entry to the crack, which we followed to a tree beneath the big chimney. From there it was a long easy pitch to the summit. From the many traces of climbing activity, it appears that Kerckhoff Dome now has several established routes.

Greg Donaldson

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