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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Aiguille Extra, East Buttress, near Mount Whitney

Aiguille Extra, East Buttress, near Mount Whitney. This hiding giant surprisingly had only one route on it, which follows an obvious large dihedral. Kenny Cook and I hiked on July 1 from Whitney Portal to the base of our proposed route, the unclimbed east buttress. The first pinnacle we fourth-classed from the right under a constant barrage of ice and rock from the walls above. The climbing began with a pitch of loose, friable rock (F6) to a good crack at the right of the base of a chimney. Kenny led up the crack (F9) to a good ledge. I climbed up a thin crack and then tensioned into an off-width crack (A2, F9). Kenny went up left (F7) through a slot below a ledge system, up a short F10 section. A little third-classing brought us to a comfortable bivouac. In the morning, the fifth pitch (F7) tended right and ended on a ledge. Some third-class scrambling to the left took us to the large ledge at the bottom of a headwall. A large block on the left formed a perfect hand-crack for 25 feet. Kenny led this vertical wall (F10). I moved up a flaky layback to small footholds and traversed right for 30 feet to a good hand-crack (F8) which ended at a good belay atop large blocks. Kenny led the last pitch from an ice-covered corner to the right. A few aid moves took him up an overhanging wall to F4 climbing and a pedestal just below the summit. NCCS V, F10, A2.

Werner R. Landry