North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Consumnes Gorge

Publication Year: 1979.

Consumnes Gorge. In February Ron Vardanega and I put up three new routes on the dome across the river from the popular bouldering area: 1). Grandma Buttons. Go over the overhang at the bottom of the central crack system. Traverse above the arch one rope-length on knobs to a belay bolt on a clean apron below a prominent overhang. Climb the overhang and continue straight up. NCCS II, F8. 2). Grandpappy. This was climbed with Steve Iverson. Do the overhang again, then go up the center of the slab left of the central crack system to a belay bolt above and left of a shaky flake. Continue up the fine slab above past three bolts to a belay bolt. From here, go straight up to the unrope area. NCCS II, F9. 3). Grizzly Green. Go up to the ledge with two bolts at the base of Gutenburger Wall. Walk to its left end by a small oak tree. Go up an overhang to a pocket, then up and right to a poor bolt, then left and up a slab to a bolt. Continue up the slab to a crack and then up and left to a bolt. The slab above leads to the finish. NCCS II, F9. One should note that the owners of the property want climbers to use only the trail from the bridge at Bucks Bar, not the trail from the upper parking lot. Also, they don’t want campfires. They are good people, and in order to keep this fine area open all users should respect their reasonable requests.

Bob Branscomb