North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Rainier Willis Wall, Thermogenesis

Publication Year: 1979.

Mount Rainier, Willis Wall, Thermogenesis. On the last day of winter March 20, Jerome Eberharter, Jon Olson and I ascended the seldom climbed Willis Wall on Rainier. Jerome christened the new route “Thermogenesis.” It followed the 55° couloir to the right of the west rib and to the left of Liberty Ridge. The climb to the termination of the couloir at the 12,500-foot level was accomplished in seven hours from a crevasse bivouac at 10,000 feet. Firm snow, water-ice and some loose rock were encountered on a clear, near freezing day. None of the climbers were struck by stonefall. A speedy descent was made the same day down Liberty Ridge. This climb is to be recommended for generally colder conditions, as the route avalanched in its entirety twice the following day.

Steve Doty