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North America, United States, Alaska, Haydon Peak and Attempt on St. Elias

Haydon Peak and Attempt on St. Elias. Dan Dobbins, Bob Carlson, Paul Richens, Steve Barker and I as leader gave Mount St. Elias our best but did not attain the summit. On May 14 we helicoptered to 2500 feet on the southwest ridge (the Harvard route of 1946). Seven days later, after a three-day storm, we reached Haydon Col (10,000 feet) and the cache which had been left there by helicopter. Dan Dobbins and I then placed 900 feet of fixed rope on the steep snow and ice above the col and left a cache of food at 12,500 feet, our high point. Storms were our constant companions for the next twelve days. During a four-hour lull, Carlson, Dobbins and I quickly climbed Haydon Peak, reaching the summit in a whiteout. Because stormy weather persisted, we retreated.

Colin M. Fuller, M.D., Sierra Club