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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Redoubt, South Ridge, Winter Ascent

Mount Redoubt, South Ridge, Winter Ascent. Kevin Duffy and I did a winter ascent of the south ridge of Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet). The climb took nine days, seven of them for the approach. We flew to Crescent Lake, about ten miles from the mountain. After five days of skiing through alders and around open rivers, we arrived at the mountain. We began our trip on December 26, 1977 and so our daylight hours were very limited. At first light (nine A.M.) we headed upwards with 6000 feet to go. The weather was beautiful, clear and cool. The sun began to set as we approached the summit and we arrived on top in darkness. Rather than to bivouac on the top, we descended the whole route with headlights aglow and under a fine display of northern lights. The route was beautiful with hard ice, narrow ridges and steep couloirs.

Gary Bocarde