North America, United States, Alaska, North Triple Peak, Northwest Face, Kichatna Mountains

Publication Year: 1979.

North Triple Peak, Northwest Face, Kichatna Mountains. On May 2 Peter Sennauser and I climbed North Triple Peak by an elegant ice swath on the northwest face. The climb gave us 25 hours of joy, agony and ice. There were 15 pitches of front-pointing on rather brittle ice, the last three being along the mixed rock-and-snow summit ridge. We reached the summit at eight P.M. The descent fizzled as the headlamp strobed and then petered out. We sat on a two-by-four-foot block of rock frozen in the middle of this 2000-foot face and waited four hours for light to finish the rappels.

Richard Ellsworth