North America, United States, Alaska, Rooster Comb Attempt, Mount Dan Beard

Publication Year: 1979.

Rooster Comb Attempt, Mount Dan Beard. Mark Houston, Rick Stockwell and I spent the month of April in the Ruth Amphitheatre. Our first objective was the Rooster Comb via the col between it and Huntington. Our attempt reached the 9800-foot icefield southeast of the south summit via an ice couloir from the col. Lack of supplies, impending storm and exhaustion drove us back. We later climbed Mount Dan Beard by a variant of the south-face route. Rather than to traverse onto the face, we continued up the southwest rib and bivouacked below the large cliff at the top. We descended a narrow couloir to the west of the rib. The same route was used by the Oregon party two days earlier. We also climbed Barrille by the southwest ridge and Dickey via Pittock Pass from Base Camp near the Mountain House.

Bruce Pratt