AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Mountaineering in Greenland

Mountaineering in Greenland

Erik Hoff, Dansk Bjergklub

(A supplement to articles on the same subject published in Journal, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Vol. IV, No. 11, 1962, in Berge der Welt 1966-7 and in Mountain World 1966-7.)

THE years 1967 to 1976, which is the period dealt with in this article, have seen a steady rise in the annual number of expeditions to Greenland, both to the western and eastern regions of this, the world’s largest island. And this trend has naturally meant an increase also in mountaineering activities.

One might have expected new regions of importance to have been opened up, but that is not the case. Instead, those previously visited have been further explored, and several first ascents and climbs along new routes have been made, for instance in the Angmagssalik region, in Schweizerland, in the Staunings Alps, in the Cape Farewell area and the Narssarssuaq region, and in the Sukkertoppen and Upernivik regions. In spite of several attempts made during the period under review, the hinterland of the Blosseville Coast has as yet to be finally explored and mapped. This is where we find the highest mountain of Greenland: the Gunnbjørn’s Fjeld (climbed in 1973 for the second time, after a 40-year interval; this time again by a Danish-British party), Watkins Mountains, and a great many very interesting and still untrodden peaks of more than 3000 metres. More virgin peaks are to be found in Christian X Land and in the wilderness of Suess Land (the hinterland of the coast between Ella Island and Daneborg on the east coast), and in the region at the head of Scoresby Sound (Milneland and Renland).

It has become easier to stage mountaineering expeditions to Greenland. Transport—also locally—has improved considerably. But it has also become more expensive. It is difficult to give any general advice as to what means of transportation should be preferred. If time is of the essence, air transport is probably the best proposition, at least to and from Greenland. But for local transportation, flying is more costly and for certain routes less reliable than the use of boats. When activities are centered in faraway places near the shores of a fjord or the open sea, it will always be of great advantage to have a boat available. Portable radio transceivers are now used more often than previously. A license for their use must be taken out beforehand with the Danish telecommunication authorities.

Special rules apply to the Staunings Alps, the most alpine area of Greenland. For many years, the Danish air transport authorities have maintained the rule that expeditions arranged strictly for sporting purposes will not be allowed the use of the landing strip at Mesters Vig, which is practically the only, and at least the best, means of approach to the Staunings Alps. In spite of this rigorous restriction, which does not seem to be very well founded, several expeditions have from time to time operated in the area. They have been scientific expeditions whose members have repeatedly availed themselves of the opportunities offered to climb surrounding peaks. This intransigence on the part of the authorities is much to be regretted. All we can do is wait, and hope that some day the area will be more easily accessible.

Otherwise, the attitude of the Danish authorities towards mountaineering expeditions is sympathetic and loyal. As to conditions which must be met by expeditions, a fairly regular practice has evolved. What concerns the authorities is in particular the security required to cover the cost of rescue operations in case of an emergency; usually the authorities demand that expeditions arrange for such coverage by means of an indemnity—often in quite a large amount—undertaken by an insurance company or a bank. Sometimes, expeditions are required also to be equipped with portable radio transceivers.

It should be noted that Greenland, being part of the Kingdom of Denmark, is open to all persons in possession of a valid passport and a visa. An actual license to climb mountains or to move about on glaciers or on the icecap is not required, but expeditions intending such activities must give notice to the Ministry for Greenland, which is empowered to veto plans it deems too risky.

An interesting novel feature of this ten-year period is the creation of a proper National Park comprising much of North and Northeast Greenland. A detailed order issued pursuant to Danish statutory provision regulates traffic in these regions; it does not prohibit the climbing of mountains.

Two books on our subject have been published since 1967: Montagne di Groenlandia by Mario Fantin in 1969, and The Staunings Alps by Donald Bennet in 1971. The first-mentioned book, regrettably written in Italian, is the first comprehensive attempt at giving a complete exposition of mountaineering in Greenland. This work is conceived on a grand scale, it has excellent maps, a wealth of photographic material,and many reports on past expeditions. For the present, Fantin’s book must be considered the standard work on our subject.

Bennet’s book is an admirable reference book on climbs in the Staunings Alps—the author is a true expert on the area, which he has visited several times.

The below list of ascents made in the period 1967–76 does not pretend to be exhaustive. Obviously, there may have been expeditions that have escaped the notice of the present writer. Well aware of this lack of completeness, the writer still hopes that the data he has collected may be of interest to the growing number of enthusiasts that set out in quest of new hunting grounds, and who, over the years, have found them in Greenland. Among the data given, in particular the list of books and of references to other literature will be found to be of value, but the writer will be glad to make available to people interested in the subject his own knowledge and the material stored in his archives.

In conclusion, I would like to thank everybody who has assisted in the preparation of the list. A great number of mountaineers unknown to me have readily answered my requests for information and provided me with material of great value, including reports, maps, and illustrations. However, I cannot here keep secret that a not inconsiderable number of queries have gone unanswered, in spite of repeated requests for a reply. Such disappointments cannot be avoided. C’est la vie!

Finally, a few practical items:

(1) As mentioned above, any expedition going to Greenland must give notice of its plans five to six months prior to setting out to the Ministry for Greenland, Hausergade 3, DK-1128 Copenhagen K. Forms for this purpose are available at request.

(2) Maps (land), at scale 1:250,000, and aerial photos are for sale at The Royal Geodetic Institute, Rigsdagsgarden 7, DK-1218 Copenhagen K.—Charts (sea) can be had from: Farvandsdirektoratet, Nautisk Afd., Esplanaden 19, DK-1263 Copenhagen K.

(3) If anybody should want to give a name to any locality in Greenland, an application must be sent to: Stednavneudvalget for Grøn- land (Place-Name Committee), Hausergade 3, DK-1128 Copenhagen K. It should be noted that the giving of any name of a living person is not allowed. For approval to be obtained the name suggested must conform to the pattern of Danish or Greenlandic place-names.

(4) The Royal Greenland Trading Company operates a travel department where tickets for scheduled flights and sea-crossings to and from Greenland and between places in Greenland may be ordered. Write to: Strandgade 100, DK-1004 Copenhagen K.

1967

1. The University of St. Andrew West Greenland Expedition 1967 to Upernivik Island (West coast), Umanak area.

Members: P.W.F. Gribbon (leader), R.A. North, J. Hall, R.M. Nisbet, A.K. Robertson, W.T. Band, D.T. Meldrum, W. Tauber. 18 first ascents and 1 second ascent.

Alpine Journal vol. LXXIII May 1968 no. 313 p. 68–80.

General report by P.W.F. Gribbon.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 331.

American Alpine Journal 1968 p. 184–5.

1. German expedition to the Staunings Alps (East coast).

Members: Hans Richter (leader), Sepp Kurz, Hermann Ponn and Carl de Temple. 13 peaks climbed—possibly all first ascents. Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 71.

2. British expedition to the Mont Forel area (East).

Members: J. Charwick (leader), M.C. Clark, C.M. Holt, R.J. Peck- ham, G.J. Pert and R.G. Swainson. 10 mountains climbed, 9 of which first ascents. Amongst them: “Flat Top” (2900 m) and “Stephensonsbjerg” (3240 m).

American Alpine Journal 1968 p. 182–83.

3. Italian expedition to the Staunings Alps (East coast).

Members: Toni Gobbi (leader), Renato Petigax, Giorgio Colli, Mario Senorer, Irene Bozzi, Augusto Bianchi, Umberto Caprara, Cicci Turati, Walter De Stavola, Giorgio Di Giorgi, Renato Fabbri, Luigi Mariane and Bruno Uggeri. 1 first ascent and 3 second ascents and crossing of Col Major and Col Glamis—on skis. First ski climbs in the Staunings Alps.

General report by Toni Gobbi 1967.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969, p. 334.

American Alpine Journal 1968 p. 183 and 1970 p. 150.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 47.

4. Italian expedition to Schweizerland (East coast).

Members: Aldo Daz (leader), Günther Gasser, Gerald Maier and Walter Dorfmann. 30 ascents, 20 of which first ascents.

Newspaper articles (Der Bergsteiger in den Dolomiten, January 1968).

5. Italian-Swiss expedition to the Upernavik district (West coast). C.A.I., Sezione di Gavirate.

bellay, Ami Giroud, Tullio Farrario, Aurelio Foletti, Antonio Members: Dante Caraffini (leader), Guilio Amos, Michel Dar-

Giovenzana, André Michaud and Anthony Shaftesbury. 6 first ascents on the Qioqe peninsula.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 335.

Report by Antonio Giovenzana.

American Alpine Journal 1968 p. 183.

6. Italian expedition (Spedizione del C.A.I., Como) to the Umanak area (West coast).

Members: Rino Zocchi (leader), Elio Scarabelli, Riccardo Soresini and Marco Zappa. 4 first ascents—3 on the Umiamaku Nunat peninsula and 1 on the Akuliarusek peninsula.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia.

Rivista Mensile del C.A.I., anno 89, n. 9. Sept. 1968 p. 379-384. American Alpine Journal 1968 p. 185.

7. Army Mountaineering Association Expedition 1967.

Members: J.D.C. Peacock (leader), J.W.A. Fleming, H.G. Jenks, T.J. Lynch, B. Marbindals, A.A. Scarlsbrick, T.D. Thomson, R.B. Weeks and P.A. Nissen (Danish liaison officer). 18 ascents— 16 of them first ascents—in the Sukkertoppen district between Ikamiut Fjord and Evighedsfjord (West).

Alpine Journal, vol. LXXIII. Nov. 1968 no. 317 p. 234.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 327.

American Alpine Journal 1968 p. 185–6.

1968

1. Japanese expedition (Crossing of the Inland Ice from west to east).

Members: Kinju Ikeda (leader), Tsugio Satsukime, Hiroshi Sagano and Tadashi Tawata. In the course of this expedition the members climbed Stephenson’s-bjerg (3240 m), Mont Forel (3360 m) which is the second Japanese ascent; also an unnamed peak of c. 2900 m. American Alpine Journal 1969 p. 417–18.

2. The Irish Greenland Expedition 1968.

Members: J.P.O.F. Lynam (leader), J. Bent, F.G. Doherty, P. McN. Hill, A.N. Lynch, T.D. Milnes and K.E. Price. 8 first ascents in the area between Tasermiut Fjord and Lindenows Fjord in the Kap Farvel district (South Greenland).

General report 1969, Die Alpen 1968 no. 10 p. 219.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 343.

American Alpine Journal 1969 p. 418.

Alpine Journal 1969 p. 284-7.

3. British Expedition to East Greenland 1968 (University of London, Graduate Mountaineering Club).

Members: D. Fordham (leader), M. Tuson, I. Campell, J. Coote, M. Esten, J. Webster and P. Cole. 5 first ascents between Kan- gerdlugssuatsiaq and K.V.J. Steenstrup Sdr. Bræ—and 2 in Kungmiut area (East coast).

General report by D. Fordham.

Alpine Journal 1969 p. 282-84.

4. The Army East Greenland Expedition 1968.

Members: C.H. Agnew (leader), P.N. Dilly, J.W.A. Fleming, T.E.F. Taylor, D. Beaton, B.K. Porter, P.B. Cole, B.A. James and D. Ewans. 23 first ascents north of the Kristians Glacier (Schweizerland—Angmagsalik district).

Expedition report by C.H. Agnew and others.

Alpine Journal 1969 p. 276–81.

5. Women’s East Greenland Mountaineering Expedition to Staunings Alps (East coast).

Members: Joan Busby (leader), Esmé Speakman, Mary Fulford, Margaret Darvall and Eilith Nisbet. Various climbs in the area around Bersærkerbræen.

General report (A Tilt at the Arctic) by Joan Busby.

6. German Northeast Greenland Expedition 1968 to the Staunings Alps. (East coast).

Members: Hermann Huber, Rudi Berger, Horst Schürer and Günther Fluhrer. 4 first ascents in the central part of the Staunings Alps. Report by Hermann Huber 1968.

Alpinismus 1969 Bd. 4 p. 60.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 72.

7. Scottish Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East coast).

Members: C. Allan, D. Bennet, R. Chalmers, P. Gunson, D. Jones, M. Slesser and N. Tennent. 2 first ascents and other climbs in the central sector of the Staunings Alps.

Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal, vol. 29, no. 160, 1969.

8. French Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East coast).

Members: Claude Rey (leader), Mereille Bogeat, Mito Boymond, Paulette Bogeat, Danièle Parrot, Suzanne Georges, François Valla, Claude Hole, Bernard Genand, Jean Fourcy, Henry Brondel, Marc Arnold, Jean-Louis Georges, Jean Midière, Philippe Leopold and Bruno Thiboudon. 26 first ascents in the area south of Furesø.

Montagnes Polaires by Claude Rey and others , 1969.

La Montagne, December 1968 p. 377.

9. Swiss Expedition to the Umanak district (West coast) Akuliarusek peninsula.

Members: Pierre Bossus (leader), Otto Germana, Michel Bolay, Joop Goosten, Raynald Martin, Bernard Wörner, Joseph Boschung and Roger Egger. 9 first ascents in the area north of Kangerd- lugssuaq Fjord.

Report Officiel de l’Expédition 1968 au Groenland by Pierre Bossus.

10. Swiss Expedition to the Sukkertoppen area (West coast).

Members: André Grisel (leader) Hélène Perret, Otto Heuss, Hans Flotron, René Victor and Karl Maurer. Various climbs on the island Hamborgerland and in the area south of Sermilingguaq Fjord. Die Alpen, 45. annual series, First Quarter, 1969 p. 55.

American Alpine Journal 1970 p. 153.

11. Danish Expedition to Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld, East Greenland.

Members: Jens Jensen, Vagn Bjerre Christensen, John Andersen, Dolfi Rotovnik, Harry Vedöe, Per Ole Nielsen, Allan Scharff and Erik Hoff. On account of difficult ice and weather conditions landing on the Blosseville Coast was abandoned. The expedition then turned to the K.V. V. Stenstrups Sdr. Brae (150 km. north of Angmagsalik) where 14 first ascents were made.

Report 1973.

12. Italian Expedition to the Angmagsalik district (East coast). Società Alpinistica “Falchi”, Turin (C.A.I.).

Members: Attilio Farina (leader), Livio Boati, Franco Girodo, Flavio Bertolo, Fiore Amisano, Roberto Ferrero, Gianmaria Guasti, Vicenzo Toranelli, Giorgio Benzi and Giovanna Benzi Villa. 20 first ascents, 4 second ascents and a vain attempt on “Incompiuta”. Mario Fantin: Italiani sulle montagne del mondo 1968.

13. Ö.A.V. Expedition to Southwest Greenland 1968.

Members: Ernst Herzinger (leader), Felix Zeller, Arnold Larcher, and Erwin Resch. 8 first ascents of peaks (between 1530 m and 2220 m) near Sermilik Fjord in the Nanortalik district.

Alpinismus 1968 no. 10 p. 48.

Der Bergkamerad, Jan. 1969, no. 1, p. 38.

Report by Ernst Herzinger and Arnold Larcher, 1968.

American Alpine Journal 1969, p. 418.

14. Italian Expedition to the Angmagsalik district (East coast). Sezione di Brescia (C.A.I.)

Members: Tullio Corbellini (leader), Renato Fada, Dario Podavini, Franco Solina, Italo Bazzani, Giovanni Albertelli and Giovanni Gadola. 12 first ascents.

Mario Fantin: Italiani sulle montagne del mondo 1968.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 339. C.A.I. Sezione di Brescia p. 12.

15. Italian Expedition to the Angmagsalik district (East coast). Sezione di Allessandria (C.A.I.)

Members: Giancarlo Testera (leader), Carla Testera, Mario Bon- zano, Bruno Porcelli, Renato Barberis and Mario Pesce. Climbs: “Cima Allessandria” 1650 m. “Cima Castello 1720 m. “Cima Bellavista” 1905 m.

Mario Fantin: Italiani sulle montagne del mondo 1968.

Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 338.

16. Scottish Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East). (Dundee University Scoresby Land Expedition).

Members: J.H.M. Smart and R. Allen (leaders), A. Petit, R. O’Brien, R. Heywood and Carvell. Several high peaks climbed in the central sector of the Staunings Alps.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 49.

17. Scottish Expedition to the Staunings Alps.

A party under the leadership of Graham Tiso made the third ascent of Norsketinde by a new route and other climbs in the central sector of the Staunings Alps and in Nathorst Land.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 50.

18. British Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East). (Queen Mary College (London) Expedition).

Members: Keith Miller (leader), R. Palmer, T. Hird, M. Munro, D. Drewry, T. Bankaszek, E. William and J. Kanerous. Several climbs of the highest peaks in the central sector of the Staunings Alps.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 48 and 73.

Expedition report 1968.

1969

1. Italian Expedition to the Staunings Alps. (East).

Members: Toni Gobbi (leader), Cicci Turati, Giulio Azzaroli, Armando Colombari, Giorgio Franceschi, Gion Domenico Ganas- soni, Paolo Grunanger, Leonardo Lenti, Gion Paolo Nannelli, Oliviero Franchéy, Franco Garda, Mario Senoner and Luigino Henry. In course of this—the second Italian skiing expedition to the Staunings Alps—5 peaks were climbed.

American Alpine Journal 1970 p. 150-1.

1. University of St. Andrews Greenland Expedition 1969 (West coast)

Members: P.W.F. Gribbon (leader), WJ.A. Tauber, W.T. Band, J.N. Roos, D.M. Kirkland, J.M. McDowall, K.F. Avery, J.S. Shade, M.D. Heller and A.T.A. Stevenson. 38 ascents, 4 of which on

Umanak Island and 31 on Upernivik Island and other islands and peninsulas. In all 17 first ascents and second ascent of Umanak Fjeld (three new routes).

General report by P.W.F. Gribbon and other expedition members. Alpine Journal 1970 p. 242.

American Alpine Journal 1970 p. 153-4.

2. Watkins Mountains Expedition I 1969 (East coast).

Members: Alastair Allan (leader), George Spenceley, Jack Carswell, Michel Barrault (British), Vagn Bjerre Christensen and Harry Vedöe (Danish). Attempt to reach Watkins Bjerge from the north was abandoned on account of unusually bad weather conditions.

Preliminary report by A. Allan.

Alpine Journal 1970 p. 239.

American Alpine Journal 1970 p. 151.

3. Joint Services Expedition to North Peary Land 1969.

Members: J.D.C. Peacock (leader), I.W. Cox, A.D.F. Dalton, P.R. Dawes, C.J. Grant, R.A. Fountain, A.M. Griffin, S.G. Lloyd Morrison, H.P. May, B.K. Reid, C.E. Shorrocks and N.J. Soper. In course of this mainly scientific expedition to the northern part of Pearyland several minor and 16 of the highest peaks were climbed— among others Swiss Peak (1920m) and an unnamed peak of 1890 m. Preliminary report 1969.

American Alpine Journal 1970 p. 149.

4. French Expedition to the Sukkertoppen district (West).

Members: Jacques Rouillard (leader), Monique Larmoyer, Pierre Merlin, Bernard Cabane, Pierre Jamet, Jacques Coffin, Michel Berquet, Jean Badier, Simone Badier, Jeanine Carrette, Henri Chapelain, Daniel Duchesne, Bruno Martinetti, Claude Cochard, Nicole Chenais, Christian Troublé, Monique Lechevallier, A. Drevet and Cerrutti Mavri. Vain attempt to climb Mount Atter on skis. A couple of minor peaks in the same area were climbed.

Private correspondence with the leader.

5. Dutch Expedition to East Greenland.

Members: J.A. Noordijk (leader), P.v. Lookeren Campagne, N.v. Lookeren Campagne, F. Visser, A.v. Melle, L.v.D. Bergh, M. Malotaux, E. Reijnierse, H.v. Lookeren Campagne, M. Schmitz, H. Hovinga (Dutch) and G. Wallerstein (American). 18 ascents 10 of which probably first ascents in the area west of Kangerdlugs- suatsiaq Fjord.

de Berggids, Oktober 1969 no. 5.

6. Danish Expedition to the Sukkertoppen district (West).

Members of a Danish Scout Organization (F.D.F.) made thethird ascent of Mount Atter and climbed another (unnamed) peak. Report 1969.

7. British Expedition to East Greenland (London Graduate Mountaineering Club).

Members: Derek Fordham (leader), Michael Tuson, John Ash- burner, Arthur Clarke, Dennis Kemp, David Morgan and Don Roscoe. First ascents of two peaks (each c. 2000 m) in the area around Champs Elysées Glacier east of Femstjernen (Schweizerland- Angmagsalik district).

General report by D. Fordham and members of the expedition. Alpine Journal 1970 p. 240.

American Alpine Journal 1970 p. 152.

8. Italian Expedition to East Greenland (C.A.I. “Marche I a”).

Members: Sergio Macciò (leader), Giuliano Mainini, Renato Beretta, Mario Corsalini, Disederio Dottori, Diomiro Mancini and Mario Moretti. Several first ascents in the area around Sermiligaq Fjord (Angmagsalik district).

Report by Sergio Macciò.

9. Swiss Expedition to East Greenland (AACB).

Members: Jürg Müller (leader), Christoph Blum, Lukas Matter, Fred Müller, Werner Munter, Hans Stämpfli, Jörg Wyss and Heiri Furrer. 15 ascents in the area north of Tasissarssik Fjord (Angmagsalik district), nearly all first ascents. The plan of making an ascent of Ingolffjeld (Kangerdlugssuatsiaq Fjord) was abandoned on account of difficult ice condition.

Akademischer Alpenclub Bern, 64. Jahresbericht. 1968/69.

Die Alpen 1971, first quarterly p. 28.

10. International Mount Mikkelsen Expedition 1969 (East coast)

Members: Malcolm Slesser (leader), Ian Smart, Allan Petit and Carlos Zibell (Danish). Vain attempt to reach Grivel Bugt in two small boats from the north. 3 first ascents on the northern part of the Blosseville coast.

Report by M. Slesser.

Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal, vol. 29, no. 161, 1969.

1970

1. French Expedition to Schweizerland (East).

Members: Jacques Rouillard (leader), Monique Larnoyer, Daniel Duchesne, Jacques Durville, Colette Gauthier, Pierre Chanel, Jean- Louis Morlot, Georges Petit, Marc Breuil, Bernard Certain, Monique Petitdidier, Lobon Kirzenecky, and Steve Chanel. 11 ascents 8 of which first ascents in the area east and north of Tasilaq Kua Fjord— and between this fjord and the Midgaard—and September glaciers. American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 153.

Private correspondence with the leader.

2. Spanish Expedition to Schweizerland (East).

Members: José Aranda Llatas (leader), W.M. Baldovi, E.T. Ochoa, H.V. Pastor, B.B. Munuera, A.B. Sanjaime, A.T. Penaranda. 25 ascents—probably all first ascents—in the regions of the Fenris and Midgaards glaciers.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 154.

3. Danish Expedition to the Tasermiut district (South).

Members: Per Ole Nielsen, Carla Nielsen, Kurt Werner and Hanne Werner. Various climbs in the area near Tasermiut Fjord Private correspondence with the members.

4. British Expedition to Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld 1970 (East).

Members: Andrew Ross (leader), Graham Williams, Nigel Robinson, and Peter Lewis. First ascent of Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld (3300 m).

The team sailed from Scoresby Sound to Wiedemanns Fjord in an open boat and walked from the coast to the foot of the mountain (45 miles). After a vain attempt to reach Scoresby Sound by boat the expedition was rescued by a Danish freighter.

Mountain 13, January 1971 p. 22-27.

American Alpine Journal 1971 p. 394.

Alpine Journal 1971 p. 250-51.

5. Spanish Expedition 1970 (Group Atlas) to the Angmagsalik district (East).

Members: José Ma Biosca (leader), Salvador Franco and Francisco Olvera. Vain attempt to climb a 1600 m. peak. Various ascents of minor peaks near Tassissarsik Fjord.

Groenlandia, Report on the Expedition 1970, Barcelona.

6. Swedish Greenland Expedition 1970. (West).

Members: Carl-Axel Bladsjø, Tommy Sandberg, Lars Ström, Ingela and Bo Söderberg, Per-Gunnar Bjurman, Lena Elfving, Anders Karl- qvist, Marianne Larsson and Kalle Hult. First ascents of 25 peaks (between 790 and 1460 m) in the area between Sdr. Strömfjord and Evighedsfjord.

Report by members of the expedition.

Till Fjälls 1969–70 p. 68-77.

Alpine Journal 1971 p. 249-50.

7. The Cambridge Staunings Expedition 1970.

In course of this scientific expedition under the leadership of Keith Miller the following peaks were climbed:

1) Dalmore Junior (2140 m) by Jim Bishop and ? Young. 2) Hird Star (2250 m) by Chris Padfield and John Danby. 3) Junction Peak (2180 m) by John Halliday, Chris Padfield and John Danby (possibly a first ascent), all situated near the Roslin glacier in the southern sector of the Staunings Alps.

Special Project Report 2, 1972.

American Alpine Journal 1971 p. 395.

8. Expedition to Staunings Alps (East) (Dundee University Expedition).

Members : R. Heywood, A. Pratt, J. Morrison, P. Hollins and others. In course of this scientific expedition 8 peaks in the central and south part of the Staunings Alps, 6 of which first ascents were climbed. American Alpine Journal 1971 p. 396.

9. Münchner Grönland-Fahrt 1970. (The area west of Alpefjord. East).

Members: Wolfgang Weinzierl (leader), Bruno Friedrich, Christoph Schwarz and Tony Mayer. 8 first ascents in the area west of Alpefjord.

Report 1970.

American Alpine Journal 1971 p. 395.

Der Bergkamerad, Heft 10/1971.

10. American Expedition to Southwest Greenland.

Members: George van B. Cochran, Cecil Grace, Robert Taggert and John Woods (British). Ascent of an 1840 m mountain and a couple of lower peaks near the Qororssuaq valley in the Narssarssuaq district.

American Alpine Journal 1971 p. 396.

11. Ladies’ Scottish East Greenland Expedition 1970.

Members: Helen Steven (leader), Pamela Cain, Mora McCallum, Eilidh (Helen) Nisbet, Esme Speakman, Ann Winning, Anne Cordi- ner, Alison Dinwoodie, Chris Paltie, Edna Smith, Greta Summer and Christina Macnair. 5 ascents—one (Bersaerker Spire) to the west of the Bersærkerbræ (central sector of the Staunings Alps) and 4 (3 of which first ascents) on the Nathorst Land.

Private information.

12. Scottish Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East).

Donald Bennet and Malcolm Slesser made a couple of ascents—one of them a first ascent—in the central sector of the Staunings Alps. Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 52.

13. French Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East).

A party under the leadership of Claude Rey made 5 ascents—one of them a first ascent and another the fourth ascent of Norsketinde—in the central sector of the Staunings Alps.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 52.

1971

1. First Croatian Mountaineering Expedition Greenland 1971.

Members: Jerko Kirigin (leader), Dolfi Rotovnik, Hrooje Lukatela, Marijan Cepelak, Borislav Aleraj, Branko Separovice and Antun Filipcic. First ascent of Ingolffjeld (East) near Kangerdlugssuatsiaq. Report by J. Kirigin and private information.

2. Italian Expedition to the Angmagsalik district.

Members: Leonardo Mosca (leader), Clara Mosca, Jean Bich, Pa- cificio Pession and Luigi Barmasse.

Various ascents in the area north of Sioralik Fjord.

Report 1971 and private information.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 154.

3. The American East Greenland Expedition of 1971.

Members: Eiichi Fukushima, George Wallerstein (leader), Larry Campbell, Dan Eaton, Curt Howard and Don Liska. Vain attempt to reach Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld. Reconnaissance of Syd glacier south of Scoresby Sound and Milne Land where 3 small virgin peaks were climbed.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 79-82.

Backpacker 3, September 1973.

Trail and Timberline no. 639, March 1972.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 254.

4. British Army West Greenland Expedition 1971.

Members: AJ. Muston (leader), C.R.M. Noonan, M.G. LeG Bridges, I.P. Graham, S.A. Bassnett, A.N. Cockran, J.W. Chuter, F.S. Mackenzie, J.P. Snodgrass, B.A. James, S. King and B.R. Lane. 10 first ascents and 5 second ascents in the area around Evigheds- fjord north of Sukkertoppen.

Report by A.J. Muston and others, 1971.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 257.

5. University of St. Andrews Greenland Expedition 1971.

Members: Philip Gribbon (leader), J.S. Shade, A.T.A. Stevenson, R.A. Mutch, M.C.C. Jacob, P.J. Biggard, R.C. Young, C.T. Green- smith, I.G. Walton and A.R. Shaw. 38 ascents, 30 of them first ascents in the area around Taserssuaq Lake in Kap Farvel district (South Greenland).

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 155.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 256.

General report by. P.W.F. Gribbon and others.

6. Irish Greenland Expedition 1971.

Members: Joss Lynam (leader), Shay Billane, Tim Cashman, Jim Colgan, George Garrett, Lindsay Griffin, Tom Hand, Doug Milnes, Shay Nolan, Denis Rankin and Christie Rice. 6 ascents in the area between Tasermiut Fjord and Lindenows Fjord (Kap Farvel district —South Greenland).

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 256.

Notes in Irish Times, December 1971.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 156.

7. Lancaster University Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East). Members: Harry Pinkerton (leader), Jim Taylor and Bill Band. Various ascents in the area around Bjørnbo Glacier in the south sector of the Staunings Alps.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 152-3.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 254.

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 77.

8. Watkins Mountain Expedition II (East). (British-Danish expedition to Gunbjörns Fjeld).

Members: Alastair Allan (leader), David Mathews (British), Vagn Bjerre Christensen, Torben Eriksen and Steen Mörup (Danish). Second ascent of Gunnbjörns Fjeld north of the Rosenborg Glacier near Blosseville Coast.

Report 1971 by Alastair Allan.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 151-2.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 254-5.

9. British Expedition to the Roscoe Mountains, Liverpool Coast (East). Members: Malcolm Slesser, Peter Mould, Harry Sales, Jack Derry, Stuart Kermach and Peter Cromar. 10 ascents, 9 of them first ascents in the area between Hurry Inlet and Liverpool Coast.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 149-50.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 254.

10. British Expedition to Watkins Mountains (East) (Sheffield University Expedition).

In course of this scientific expedition Borgtinde, situated east of the Kronborg Glacier (Blosseville Coast), was climbed for the first time by R.D. Brown and N.J. Soper. Height: 11,085 feet (3380 m) according to barometric reading. Borgtinde is probably the second highest summit reached in the Arctic.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 150-1.

Alpine Journal 1972 p. 255.

11. German Expedition to West Greenland 1971 (Oberhessische Grön- landkundfahrt 1971).

Members: Robert Kreuzinger (leader), Kurt Diemberger, Karl- Heinz Bock, Anne Kreuzinger, Wolfgang Rauschei, Wolf Reuter and Hans Lautensach. 14 first ascents and 7 second ascents on the Qioqe peninsula.

Report 1971 by Hans Lautensach and Wolf Reuter.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 155.

12. Italian Expedition to Alfred Wegener Peninsula (West).

Members: Giuseppe Cazzaniga (leader), Massimiliano Chiolo, Gianni Merlini, Ambrogio Rigamonti and Carlo Bonfanti. 5 first ascents on Alfred Wegener Island. Vain attempt on Agpartut. American Alpine Journal 1972, p. 155.

13. Italian Expedition to Upernivik Island (West) (C.A.I. Section Ivrea).

Members: Giuseppe Patrucco (leader), Sandro Beato, Piergiorgio Bosio, Gianbaltista Campiglia, Franco Cena, Nello Delu and Renato Moro. Various ascents on Upernivik Island.

American Alpine Journal 1972 p. 155.

14. French Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East).

A small party under the leadership of Claude Rey climbed in the central sector of the Staunings Alps (Vikingebræ).

Bennet: Staunings Alps p. 53.

1972

1. French Expedition to the Sdr. Strømfjord area.

Members: Jacques Rouillard (leader), Maurice Nonde, Joseph Herbert, Claude Verrien, Jean Marie Provost, Nicole Berton, Jacqueline Lance, Jacques Delombre, Alain Holette, Joël Chové, Michel Badré, Gérard Degoutte, Jean Claude Poulin, Martine Poulin, Annick Tou- vet and Monique Larmoyer. 6 first ascents on the Paornaqussuit Qávat peninsula on the north bank of Sdr. Strømfjord.

American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 169 and private information.

2. British Greenland (Cape Farewell) Expedition 1972.

Members: Roger S.D. Smith (leader), Peter J. Wenham, Ray H. Handford, Rolfe Birch, Geoffrey C. Andersson and Jim Patchett. 28 ascents, 23 of them first ascents, in the area around Sdr. Sermilik Fjord and Tasermiut Fjord (Kap Farvel district).

Report 1973.

3. The Leicester Polytechnic Students Greenland Expedition 1972.

Members: Andrew Barbier (leader), Kevin Barratt, Mick Davis, Alan Douglas, Peter Ellis, Graham Hudson, Adolf King, Ian Lambert, Pete Meads, Harry Wilson. Ascents or attempts on 20 peaks around the area to the north of Kugssuatsiaq near Sdr. Sermilik Fjord (Kap Farvel district).

Official report 1973 by Andrew Barbier.

American Alpine Journal 1973 p. 450.

4. Schweizerische Grönland-Expedition 1972.

A 6-man group under the leadership of Walter Brändli made 2 first ascents and a vain attempt on Perserajok (2250 m) in the area to the north of the Alfred Wegener peninsula (West).

Hans Nussberger: Reisebericht.

5. Swiss Expedition to Angmagsalik area (East).

A 4-man group under the leadership of Alwin Reithaar climbed 4 peaks in the area around the northern part of the great Sermilik Fjord.

6. Spanish Expedition to Angmagsalik area (East).

A group of several climbers under the leadership of José Ma Mont- ford made 28 ascents, most of them first ascents, of peaks between 835 m and 1335 m in the area to the east of Sermiligaq Fjord. Centre Excursionista de la Comarca de Bages, Bulletino 17, 1972. American Alpine Journal 1973 p. 448.

7. German Expedition to Angmagsalik area (East).

Members: Adi Schmidt (leader), Jochen Stumpf, Otto Schwagerl, Karl Ferstl and Hans Müller. 20 ascents, 17 of them first ascents, in the area to the south of the Glacier de France.

Alpenvereins Jahrbuch 1973 p. 144-46.

8. British Expedition to Southwest Greenland (The Brathay Exploration Group).

Members: 24 climbers under the leadership of W.S. Jenkins. Various climbs around Ostgletcher near the Qorqup Sermia glacier in the district of Narssarssuaq. Alpine and scientific objectives.

American Alpine Journal 1973 p. 449.

9. Austrian Expedition to Sermilik Fjord (Southwest Greenland). Members: Arnold Larcher, Peter Tataitz, Arthur Haid, Hans Penz, Toni Raich, Alfons Bertsch and Fritz Geiger. 34 ascents in the area to the west of Sermilik Fjord.

American Alpine Journal 1973 p. 449.

1973

1. Spanish Expedition to Upernivik Island (West).

Members: J.M. Anglada, Enrique Benavente, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Berta Escola, Heinz Pokorski, Jorge Pons, Sara Pinazo and

Elisabeth Verges. 12 first ascents on the Upernivik Island, the Qioqe peninsula and the Akuliaruseq peninsula.

American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 170.

2. French Expedition to Sdr. Strømfjord area (West Greenland).

Members: Jacques Rouillard, Alain Hollette, Joël Chové, Michel Badre, Maurice Nonde, Jacqueline Lance and Monique Larmoyer. 6 first ascents on the Paornqussuit Qâvat peninsula to the north of Sdr. Strømfjord.

American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 169 and private information.

3. British Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East).

Members: Keith Miller (leader), A.W. Billinghurst, E.W. Smith and Rodney A. Smith. In the course of this scientific expedition 3 peaks in the central sector of the Staunings Alps were climbed. American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 169.

3. German Expedition to Christian IX’s land. (Bayerische Naturfreunde).

Members: Hans Altheimer (leader), Herbert Ziegenhardt, Ekke Otto, Heinrich Händel, Klaus Niggel, Toni Weggel, Rolf Schofer, Josef Schrank, Dieter Sause and Ludwig Hausinger. 15 first ascents to the south of the 16th September Glacier in the Angmagsalik district (East).

Report 1973.

Alpenvereins Jahrbuch 1975 p. 119.

American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 168.

4. Swiss Expedition to Schweizerland (East).

Members: Francis Gobat (leader), René Hagmann, Francis Froté, Marc Monnerat, Daniel Grimm, Francis Bahner, Michel Vallat, Michel Zuckschwerdt, Raymond Monney, Jean-Jacques Grimm, André Wattenhofer, Joseph Petiguat and Raymond Monnerat. 16 ascents, 10 of them first ascents, in the regions of the 16th September Glacier, the Midgards Glacier and the Glacier de France.

Report 1973.

Radio je vois tout TV, Hebdomadaire suisse romande no. 38 and no. 41 1973.

5. Italian Expedition to “Apostelens Tommelfinger” (“Grönland G.A.R.S. 1973”) Lindenow Fjord in the Kap Farvel district.

Members: Franco de Facchinetti Alberti (leader), Antonio Alberti, Tullio Piemontese, Gino Comelli, Guido Cortese, Roberto Ive, Lucio Piermontese, Aldo Varesano, Attilio Tersalvi, Renzo Zambonelli and Giorgio Priolo. 2 small peaks climbed and a vain attempt on “Apostelens Tommelfinger” (2300 m) in the Lindenow Fjord area. As-

cents also made of Igdlerfissalik (1752 m) and Qarajugtoq (1440 m) and of two unnamed peaks of 1540 m. and 1670 m. in the Narssars- suaq district.

Le Alpi Venete, Autumnop—Natale 1973 p. 155 and Newspaper articles.

Rivista Mensile del C.A.I., nr. 2, 1975 p. 101–107.

Alpine Journal 1974 p. 261.

6. Danish-British Expedition to the East coast.

Members: Dolfi Rotovnik (leader), Erik Jansen, Peter Christensen, N.O. Coops Olsen, Kaj Olesen, Tom Rishøj, Peter Søndergaard (Danish) Bill Tweedale and Anthony Howard (British). 6 first ascents and vain attempt on the south wall of Ingolffjeld (2560 m) around the Kangerdlugssuatsiaq Fjord to the north of Angmagsalik. Report 1974.

Alpine Journal 1974 p. 260.

American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 167.

7. Austrian Expedition to Angmagsalik (Grönlandexpedition 1973 der Sektion ÖGV des ÖAV).

Members: Bruno Klausbruckner, Peter Holat, Ernst Kosmath (leader) and Franz Pucher. 9 ascents, 8 of them first ascents, of small peaks in the area between the Iliartalik Fjord and the Knud Rasmussen Glacier.

Gebirgsfreund Nov.-Dez. 1973.

Alpenvereins-Jahrbuch 1975 p. 119.

8. Spanish Expedition to Upernivik Island (West).

Members: Daniel Bidauretta (leader), Inake Tapia, Miguel Valencia, Abel Alvira, Javier Aldaya, José Ariz, Gregorio Ariz, Javier Geretta, Angel Martínez and Carlos Santaquiteria. 14 ascents, 2 of them first ascents, on the Upernivik Island.

Report 1973.

American Alpine Journal 1974 p. 169.

9. Spanish Expedition to Angmagsalik district (East). (Centre Excur- sionista de Terrassa).

Members: J.P. Queralt (leader), E.B. Llonch, A.A. Calvo, R.R. Porta, M.G. Santanez and J.P. Santamaría. 29 ascents, 18 of them probably first ascents, in the area to the west and southwest of the Quingertivaq Fjord. Objectives mainly scientific.

Private information.

1974

1. Austrian Expedition to Nanortalik area (South Greenland).

Members: Thomas Abermann (leader), Leopold Jeller, Leo Baum-gartner, Franz Rienzner, Oswald Gassier, Willi Barnard and Reinhard Schiestl. Various ascents in the area around the Ketilsfjord. Article in Osttiroler Bote and private information.

1. Hessische Grönlandexpedition “74”. to the Qioqe peninsula and the Alfred Wegener peninsula.

Members: Robert Kreuzinger (leader), Hans Behnecke, Kurt Diemberger, Anne Kreuzinger, Karl Landvogt, Hans Lautensach, Wolfgang Rauschei, Jörg Rautenburg and Wolf Reuter. 8 ascents, 5 of them first ascents, on the southern part of the Qioqe peninsula and on the Alfred Wegener peninsula.

Report by Robert Kreuzinger.

Alpine Journal 1975 p. 153.

Alpenvereins-Jahrbuch 1975 p. 120+21.

American Alpine Journal 1975 p. 153.

2. German Expedition to the Watkins Mountains. (East).

Members: K.M. Herrligkoffer and Thomas Gruhl. After an air reconnaissance the aircraft landed near the Nansen Fjord (Blosseville Coast) but crashed. Gruhl and the air crew were rescued by a helicopter. During the stay on the glacier an unnamed peak (c. 2000 m.) was climbed.

Der Bergsteiger no. 1, 1978 p. 91.

Report by Thomas Gruhl.

3. Italian Expedition to West Greenland 1974, (Akuliaruseq), Club Alpino Italiano, Sezione di Cuneo.

Members: Nino Perino (leader), Toni Caranta, Sergio Ambrosiani, Enrico Acchiardo, Piero Ballario, Bruno Demalteis, Carlo Garelli, Giuliano Ghibaudo, Sergio Ghibaudo, Michele Gorzegno, Giovanni Luciano, Tarcisio Martini, Tommaso Martini and Roby Peano. 12 ascents, 4 of them possibly first ascents, on the Akuliaruseq peninsula to the north of the Qioqe peninsula.

Report by Toni Caranta.

Rivista mensile CAI, no. 9, March 1975, p. 263-269.

4. Italian Expedition to Schweizerland (East). (Spedizione Alpinistica in Groenlandia Orientale del C.A.I. di Aurozo di Cadore. )

Members: Guida Molin Elziro (leader), Pippo Barbieri, Gianni Pais, Eraldo Pais Becher, Claudio De Zordo, Alberto Berti, Enzo Lancellotti and Giuseppe Macchietto. About 20 ascents in the area to the south and southeast of the Karale Glacier.

Report by Pippo Barbieri.

Il Gazzettino, Venezia, Dec. 8, 1974.

American Alpine Journal 1975 p. 154.

5. Swiss Expedition to Schweizerland (East) (Club Alpino Svizzero, Sezione Leventina).

Members: Reto Nai (leader), Nello Dell'Ambrogio, Elvios Bog- nuda, Lorenzo Petazzi, Genesio Petazzi, Geo Weit, Francesco Pon- zio, Luca Leonardi, Giovanni Petazzi, Paolo Rossi and Ulrich Saxer. 17 ascents, 3 of them first ascents, in the regions of the 16th September Glacier, the Karale Glacier and the Knud Rasmussen Glacier. New routes on earlier climbed peaks (Rytterknægten and Pikkelhuen).

Report 1975 by Reto Nai.

6. Sandhurst Greenland Expedition 1974 (“Exercise Snow Goose”). Members: R.A.L. Anderson (leader), N.R.H. Evans, K.J. Kinnaird, C.N. Leonard, C. Gulteridge, Beattie and Wickham. Second ascent of “Harlech” (5900 feet) near Bersærkerbræen in the northern sector of the Staunings Alps.

Report on the Expedition.

7. Austrian Expedition to Ketilsfjord.

No further details available.

8. Cambridge University Mountaineering Club Southern Greenland Expedition.

Members: Richard Hoare (leader), Gregory Moseley, Jeffrey Moeller, Ineke Moseley, Philippa Hoare, David and Susan Cornell, Tim Hurrell, and Gordon Hickson. 20 first ascents above Kanersuneq Fjord, toward Lindenows Fjord and on Pamiagdluk Island.

American Alpine Journal 1975 p. 152-3.

1975

1. The University of St. Andrews South Greenland Expedition 1975. Members: P.W.F. Gribbon (leader), J.F. Cant, N.N. MacKenzie, R.S. Henderson, P.J. Hunt, C.D. Matheson, D.J.P. Brown, D.J. Gashell, R.M. Sharpies and P.A. Aldred. 47 ascents on new routes (44 first ascents) in the area between Taserssuaq Lake and Prins Christians Sund (Kap Farvel district—South Greenland).

General report by Gribbon and other expedition members.

American Alpine Journal 1976 p. 475-6.

2. Deggendorf er Grönland Expedition 1975 (Sektion Deggendorf er der DAV).

Members: Georg Leitl (leader), Manfred Eiberweiser, Heinrich Fischer, Poidl Hausinger, Franz Kammerer, Sepp Maier, Josef Reitberger and Max Weber. 17 ascents, 14 of them possibly first ascents, on the Akuliaruseq peninsula, West Greenland.

Alpenvereins-Jahr buch 1976 p. 146.

3. The Cambridge University 1975 Expedition to Northeast Greenland. Members: Keith Miller (leader), Jim Bishop, Chris Padfield and John Thorogood. Traverse of the Staunings Alps from Mesters Vig via Kap Petersen through the central sector to Sydkap and through Schuchert Valley back to Mesters Vig. Although no ascents were made, this expedition is important in the opening up of two passes. It is, moreover, the first complete crossing of the Staunings Alps.

Special Project Report 4 by Keith Miller.

Alpine Journal 1976, 81 (325) p. 143.

American Alpine Journal 1976 p. 476.

4. French Expedition to South Greenland.

Members: Jacques Rouillard (leader), Andreé Cot, Jean Bernard Givet, Geneviève Gay, Monique Larmoyer, Denis Flinberg, Jacques Sevenet, Bernard Jonquères, Bernard Jamois, Jean Paul Duval, Philippe Connille, François Feltrin, Patrice Quaine, Hervé Dewine, Jeanine Carrette, Pierre Jaubert, Geneviève Jaubert, Pierre Chanel. 7 ascents in the area between the Tasermiut and Karegikitsoq Fjords to the north of Tasiusaq.

Private information.

5. Spanish Expedition to West Greenland (Expedición Sabadell Groen- landia 1975).

Members: Ramón Font Pinol (leader), Lluis Comes Arderin, Mi- quel Comes Arderiu, Nandi Salas Piriz, Eduard Abello Somolinos, Javi Balet Vilaseca and Jordi Carreras Carreras. 18 ascents, 16 of which first ascents, on the Qioqe peninsula and the Alfred Wegener peninsula to the north of Umanak Island (West coast).

Private information.

6. Lindauer Grönlandsfahrt 1975 (German).

Members: Heinz Hagg (leader), Stefan Braunmiller, Scott Cunningham, Margarethe Dobschel, Willi Eggler, Rolf Hass, Brigitte Harder-Kleinheinz, Gustav, Klaus and Susanne Harder, Thomas Hummler, Wolfgang Ruhland, Otto Schäfler, Werner Scharl, Volker Stelzer and Dieter Trapmann. 26 ascents, 2 of them first ascents, on Upernivik Island and the Quioqe peninsula (West coast).

Alpenvereins-Jahrbuch 1976 p. 146-7.

American Alpine Journal 1976 p. 475.

7. French Expedition to Tasermiut Fjord (Southern Greenland).

Members: F. Guillot (leader), A. Agier, Bernard and M.F. Amy, P. Chapoutot, B. Domenech, B. Gorgeon, J.F. and C. Lemoine, CI. Laurendeau, M. Perrotet, J. Ratti and J. Walter. 9 first ascents in the Koromint (Kimukât) valley above Tasermiut Fjord.

American Alpine Journal 1976 p. 474.

8. French Expedition to Apostelens Tommelfinger and Ketil.

Members: Maurice Barrard (leader), Pierre-Henri Feuillet, Yves Payrau, Michel Pellé, Dominique Marchai, Georges Narbaud and Gérard Vellay. The expedition made the first ascent of the Apostelens Tommelfinger and a new route, the west face of Ketil.

American Alpine Journal 1976 p. 474-5.

1976

1. Italian Expedition to Johannes Brae (Akuliaruseq) (West coast).

Members: Arturo Bergamaschi (leader), Toni Masé, Tarcisio Bal- trami, Giorgio Volta, Marcello Andreolli, Giuseppe Villa, Roberto Bazzi, Dr. Gavazzuti, Clemente and Laura Maffei, Walter Avogadri, Dr. Enrico Belloti, Gilberto Bertolani, Lodovico Gualandi, Flavio, Riccardo and Ugo Lorenzi, Enzo Giovanazzi, Heinz Steinkötter, Gianfranco Miglio and Michele Ongari. In the course of this partly scientific expedition, 40 ascents, 25 of which were probably first ascents, were made on the Akuliaruseq and Umianeako Nuna peninsulas.

Report 1976 by Roberto Bazzi.

II l risto del Carlino, Bologna 27 August, 1976.

American Alpine Journal 1977 p. 206-8.

2. German Expedition to the Staunings Alps (East).

Members: K.M. Herrligkoffer (leader), Wilhelm Schloz, Dietrich Schloz, Robert Allenbach, Cornelia Trümmer, Willy Dirmhirn and Ina Merk. 10 ascents in the area around the Spärre Glacier in the central sector of the Staunings Alps.

Der Bergsteiger, no. 1, 1978 p. 91.

3. French Expedition to Angmagsalik area.

Members: Jacques Rouillard (leader), Jean Bernard Givet, François de Monbeillars, Jeanluc Sitter, Silvie Toubhaus, Andrée Cot, Hervé Dewine, Henri Aubert, Maurice Nonde, Geneviève Gay, Pierre Jaubert, Geneviève Jaubert, Jacques Sevenet, Jean Pierre Tillier, Marie Therèse Devillers, Michel Hausard and Monique Larmoyer. 5 ascents to the north and east of the Tasilaq Kua Fjord.

Private information.

4. Spanish Expedition to Evighedsfjord (East).

Members: Ramó Barceló, Joan Freixas, Jaime Ferreras, Antonio Rañé, Carlos Romero, Victor Villagrasa, Vicente Primo, Carlos Ortiz and Juan Merino. 5 ascents in the Inugsiut Lake area near Sukker- toppen and 10 peaks above Evighedsfjord.

American Alpine Journal 1977 p. 206.

5. Swiss Expedition to the Nanortalik district (South Greenland) “Expedition Suisse 1976—Groenland Sud”.

Members: Christian Dalphin (leader), Alexis Bally, Maurice Co- chand, Ezio Lettry, Claude Reuille and Alain Villiger. 4 ascents in the area near the Uluit Kua Fjord to the north of Nanortalik.

Private information.

6. Swiss Expedition to Schweizerland (East).

A group under the leadership of A. Lustenberger made several climbs—one of them “Rytterknægten”—in Schweizerland in the Ang- magsalik district.

Private information and article in Bell-Blatt, no. 1, 1978, Kriens, Luzern.

7. French Expedition to South Greenland (Nantes-Tasermiut 1976). Members: Michel Guerrin (leader), Claude Belli, Michel Brillouët, Dominique Crochu, Louis Doubliez, Eric Page, Claudine Pinel, Marie-Christine Subot and Christiane Thisse. Various climbs in the area between the Tasermiut Fjord and the Lindenows Fjord to the north-east of Nanortalik.

Private information.

8. Swiss Expedition to the Angmagsalik district (East) (Die Bergsteiger- und Kletterschule Jura).

Leader: Arnold Heynen.

No further details available.

9. Austrian Greenland Expedition 1976.

Members: Helmut Seerainer (leader), Sepp Jeblinger, Peter Scheib- ner, Gerhard Offer, Rudolf Erstmeister and Peter Konzert. Various climbs in Liverpool Land and Jameson Land (the Roscoe Mountains and Syltoppene).

Alpenvereins-Jahrbuch 1977 p. 128.

10. British Expedition to the Kap Farvel area.

Under the leadership of J.T. Reilly a small group climbed a few small peaks to the north of Julianehaab. Before that the party made a vain attempt to reach Kornerup land farther to the east (excessive rain through 14 days).

Private information.

11. Spanish Expedition to the Alfred Wegener peninsula (West).

Members: José Manuel Anglada, Jordi Riera, Lluis Costa, Joan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Ursula Willius and Jordi Pons. First ascent of the two highest points on the Alfred Wegener peninsula, Agpatut and Ino.

American Alpine Journal 1977 p. 206.

12. Club Alpin Français Expedition to Tasermiut and Lindenows Fjords.

Members: Marceau Agier (leader), M. and Mme Bernézat, C. Bourleaux, Bernard Amy, B. Clouet, S. Jouty, J. Michaud, Y. Morin, Dr. H. Muler, F. Pelatan, B. Renard and G. Vellay. Ascents of Apostelens Tommelfinger and two Suikarsuak peaks.

American Alpine Journal 1977 p. 205-6.

Appendix

Supplementary Bibliography Continuing List in Mountain World 1966–67 1933. American Expedition to Suess-Land. The Fjord Region of East Greenland by Louise A. Boyd, American Geographical Society, Special Publication 18, 1935.

1957. G. Sutton’s Expedition to Kap Farvel district. Climbers Journal 22, 1958.

1958. Swiss Expedition to Evighedsfjorden (René Dittert). Die Alpen, 43. annual series, 2nd Quarter, p. 103.

1958. Swiss Expedition to Sukkertoppen area. Die Alpen 1967, 1st Quarter, p. 103-119.

1965. Japanese Expedition to Mont Forel. The Journal of The Japanese Alpine Club (Sangaku) vol. LXI. 1966 p. 25.

1966. Sandhurst Greenland Expedition to Sukkertoppen. Alpine Journal vol. LXXII. no. 314 p. 45.

1966. Royal Navy Expedition to East Greenland (Schweizerland). Alpine Journal vol. LXXII no. 314 p. 29 (1st part).

1966. Swiss Expedition to Schweizerland (Leader: Sigi Angerer). Die Alpen, 1st Quarter 1968 p. 21.

1966. Japanese Expedition to Mont Forel. The Journal of The Japanese Alpine Club (Sangaku) vol. LXII 1967 p. 6-7.

1966. Swedish-Norwegian Expedition to Schweizerland. Till Fjälls 1967 p. 22.

1966. Swiss Expedition to Schweizerland. Die Alpen 1968, 1st Quarter p. 19-28.

1966. Italian Expedition to Upernavik district. Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 323.

1966. Italian Expedition to Umanak district. Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 325.

1966. Sandhurst Greenland Expedition to the Sukkertoppen ice-cap. Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 327.

1966. Danish Expedition to Angmagsalik area. Mario Fantin: Montagne di Groenlandia 1969 p. 324. Rivista Mensile del C.A.I. anno 88 n. 6, 1967 p. 198-203.