American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Alpine Club of Canada

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Alpine Club of Canada. The Alpine Club of Canada experienced a very busy and rewarding year in 1977. The usual summer and winter activities took place. Some of these activities occurred in new areas, while others were a return to known, but little-used locations. A summary of these events follows.

Besides Pumori, the 23,442-foot Nepalese peak, the ACC endorsed and awarded small grants to five other expeditions. These were to Bylot Islands in the Arctic, the west face of Mount Vancouver, Mount Steele, and two different groups on Mount Logan. Four members of a women’s team all but reached the summit of Logan by the standard 1925 route. A strong and well-equipped party failed on a rib on the south face of Logan due to bad conditions.

The General Mountaineering Camp was held in the Moat Lake region of the northern Ramparts. Other camps were run at Fairy Meadow in the northern Selkirks, Hermit Meadow in the Rogers Pass area, a family camp in the Little Yoho and a Leadership Training Week operating from the Columbia Icefields area.

The winter ski camps were well attended by participants from all across Canada and the U.S. Ten camps were held in seven different areas. The programs encompassed beginner areas for cross-country and downhill ski-touring, to the old powder hound’s delight—the Slocan Chief cabin in Kokanee Provincial Park. Despite the lack of snow cover and the highly unstable conditions, the participants were able to enjoy safely the activities in the different areas.

The Canmore clubhouse was the scene of renewed building activity. Section members from Edmonton, Calgary and Banff generously donated their time to construct a cabin on the west portion of the lease. The cabin will be completed and available for occupancy in the spring of 1978. The cabin faces south, looking over the Canmore corridor towards the peaks of the newly created Kananaskis Provincial Park.

For the first time this year, the ACC has sent a representative to the Safety Committee meeting of the UIAA. Ferdl Taxbock represented Canada at the recent meeting in New York.

John Ricker’s long-awaited guide to the Peruvian Andes, Yuraq Janka, became available for distribution shortly before Christmas. A further development in the publishing field was a joint agreement with the American Alpine Club to assist in printing the booklet Accidents in North American Mountaineering. To support this responsibility, more reporting members were added to the ACC Safety Committee. This booklet is now distributed to all ACC members at no cost.

Dr. Noel Odell visited Banff to tell the story of the 1924 Everest Expedition. In contrast to the ease of the present-day approach to Everest, the 1924 expedition made a long approach through Tibet before attempting Everest by the north col. This remarkable gentleman was well received. Although the slides have weathered the years well, it was the speaker that carried the program.

The President, John Tewnion, was able to visit the four eastern sections of the ACC. This provided the members in Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto and Winnipeg with an opportunity to discuss the club’s affairs with the most senior officer. Similar visits are planned for the western sections.

The membership has now increased to over 2,700. This increase can probably be attributed to two points: the growing trend to find relaxation and recreation in the out-of-doors; and the year-round programs offered by the club, including the training schemes for beginners and aspiring leaders.

Evelyn Moorhouse, Club Manager

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