American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Koh-i-Bandaka Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Koh-e-Bandaka Sakhi Attempt. The members of our expedition gathered in Kabul in the middle of July. We were Vincens Mans, Manuel Borch, Francesc Pañella, Joan Talarn, Miquel Castellsagué Josep Blasi and I as leader. After a delay of a week over permissions we drove in three days to Zebak at the beginning of the Sanglich valley. It took another four days up the valley to the western side of our peak. We hoped to climb the southeast couloir and the northeast ridge. Camp I was on the glacier and Camp II at the foot of the couloir. The upper part of the couloir was highly dangerous because of rotten rock and rockfall; the fixed ropes were cut various times. Camp III was on the col at 19,000 feet. On August 10 we continued a hundred meters up the northeast ridge, but lack of time and the poor quality of the rock made us give up the attempt.

Eduard Martin, Spain

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