American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Noshaq, Gumbaz-e-Safed, and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Noshaq, Gumbaz-e-Safed, and Other Peaks. From August 1 to 22 our expedition of fourteen from Ljubljana climbed above the Qadzi Deh valley. Noshaq was climbed by the west ridge. We placed Base Camp at 14,950 feet on August 1. Camps I, II and III were established at 17,550, 20,276 and 22,650 feet on August 2, 4 and 8 respectively. That same day, August 8, we climbed Noshaq. I went to the main summit (24,580 feet); Danilo Cedilnik and Viktor Groselj reached the middle summit (24,115 feet). During the next ten days the other eleven members Marjan Brisar, Andrej Grasselli, Martin Gricar, Slavko Hamberger, Peter Janezic, Janez Marincic, Slava Mrezar, Matevz Suhac, Slavko Svegelj, Franc Sustarsic and Dr. Damjan Mesko, all conquered at least one of the four summits. Slava Mrezar set the Yugoslavian altitude for women by the ascent of Noshaq West (23,786 feet). On August 15 Cedilnik, Groselj and I made what we believe to be a new route on Gumbaz-e-Safed (22,310 feet) on the south face by the couloir that leads directly to the summit. The climb rose 6500 feet at 45° to 50° in the lower part and 55° in the last 2300 feet. We climbed for 13 hours without protection. We bivouacked on the descent, just below the top. On August 15 Grasselli, Gricar and Svegelj climbed a 4500-foot couloir at 45° to 50° on Gumbaz-e-Safed. They bivouacked on the ascent and again on the descent. Czechs are said to have done this route in 1974. On August 19 and 20 Brisar, Marincic and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Noshaq, to the left of the Polish route of 1972. The route is 6000 feet high, the ice about 50° and the rock of UIAA Grade II to III. We climbed without belaying for 17 hours and bivouacked 500 feet below the top of the wall. On the 19th Cedilnik and Grošelj made the first ascent of the south face of Asp-e-Syah (20,834 feet). The next day they climbed Asp-e-Safed (21,349 feet). Other members climbed Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet) and Gumbaz-e-Safed by its west ridge.

Zoran Brešlin, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.