American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Kohe Khwaja Mohammad

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Kohe Khwaja Mohammad Myani Region. The Silesian Academic Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Martin Malkowski and had as members M. Bucholz, Krystyna Nitsche, Joanna Mroczkiewicz, J. Madey, A. Drygajlo, J. Pawlikowski, J. Wajler, A. Poslednik, J. Drach, M. Matlengiewicz, L. Sojka, A. Mokrosz and J. Weglarczyk. Base Camp was in the Piw valley at 13,300 feet. They climbed Kohe Rakhoy-i Shamali (18,101 feet; 13) from camp at 15,350 feet below the 16,575-foot col between P 14 and P 13A. In this group on July 26 Bucholz, Drach and Weglarczyk ascended P 5320 (17,454 feet, 13') up a snow- field; Madey, Mokrosz and Mroczkiewicz on July 27 climbed to the col between P 13 and P 13" (17,657 feet) and to the top of P 13" by its southwest ridge and on to P 13; on July 29 Malkowski, Nitzsche, Pawlikowski and Poslednik ascended P 13A by its north ridge. Other ascents follow: Blandkonj (17,487 feet; 11) from a 15,250-foot camp up a couloir, the northwest spur and southwest ridge by Bucholz, Drach, Drygajlo, Matlengiewicz on July 28 and by Malkowski, Pawlikowski, Sojka, Wajler on July 31; Qolla-i Qandi (15) via west side and northwest ridge by Drach, Weglarczyk on July 31; Kohe Shaker Ab (16) from the west up a couloir and the northwest ridge by Drygajlo, Matlengiewicz, Nitzsche on August 2; and Kohe Mashkashoy (9) via north buttress and northeast ridge by Madey, Mokrosz, Mroczkiewicz, Poslednik on August 2.

Kohe Fergardi Group. K. Witek, Dr. A. Major and J. Kopydlow-ski climbed in the Ledjdi and neighboring Parkhar valleys. They made the first ascent of Qolla-i Nazar (c. 16,075 feet) from the east on September 23. This was the first climbing group in this glaciated region, with glaciers of one to two kilometers long and summits from 13,215 to 17,000 feet.

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