Asia, Afghanistan, Munjan Hindu Kush

Publication Year: 1978.

Kohe Morusg and Other Peaks. The Kraków Section of the Polish Society of Earth Sciences sent out an expedition under the leadership of Jerzy Wala and composed of W. Borowiec, A. Paulo, L. Kaszowski, Anna Swierzynska, J. Niewodniczanski and J. Moscinski. We worked in the Suyengal and Peshashgal valleys. Base Camp was in the Suyengal at 13,000 feet and other camps were at 16,075, 17,550 and 15,750 feet. We made the following ascents: Kohe Saruke Sard (18,791 feet) second ascent via an ice couloir and the west ridge by Borowiec, Niewodniczanski on July 21; Kohe Morusg (20,013 feet) from the north via the Kotale Bardar and northeast ridge by Borowiec, Paulo, Wala on July 23 (we had a high camp at 17,550 feet); Kohe Dosare Surengal, north peak (17,650 feet) from the west to a col of 16,750 feet and then the north ridge by Borociec, Niewodniczanski, Wala on July 28; P 5550 (18,209 feet) first ascent by east ridge by Swierzynska and Paulo; P 4900 (16,076 feet) from southeast by Kaszowski on July 28 during scientific work; also various passes. We carried out geomorphic, geological and geophysical work. Before our work here, we visited the western and the Pachigram Hindu Kush. See below.

Kohe Morusg and Other Peaks. The Stoleczny Tatra Club PTTK of Warsaw was led by Stanislaw Bratkowski and composed of Dr. A. Bukowski, Urszula Nuzynska, J.S. Graczyk, A. and A.J. Ziolecki, R. Kaczarowski, T. Wasilczuk and A. Pytlakowski. They climbed in the Suyengal, making the following ascents: P 4800 (15,748 feet) first ascent, from the west by A. and A.J. Ziolecki on July 15; P 4267 and P 4257 (13,999 and 13,967 feet) from the southeast by Bukowski and Kaczarowski on July 16, by Graczyk on July 20 and by Wasilczuk, Nuzynska, Bratkowski on July 21; P 5150 (16,897 feet) first ascent, by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, Kaczarowski on July 21; P 5580 (18,307 feet) second ascent by a new route, by the glacier and north couloir to the col of 18,000 feet and thence up the west ridge, rock, by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, Kaczarowski on July 22; Kohe Morusg (20,113 feet) with Camp I on the Kotale Bardar at 17,550 feet and Camp II on the northeast ridge at 18,550 feet by Pytlakowski, Wasilczuk from July 23 to 25, by Graczyk, Nuzynska, Kaczarowski from July 23 to 27. P c. 5430 (17,815 feet by the ridge east from the Kotale Bardar, ice, by Graczyk, Nuzynska on July 25 and by Bratkowski, Wasilczuk on July 27; P c. 5000 (16,404 feet) first ascent, from west by A. and A.J. Ziolecki on July 28; P 5200 (17,061 feet) by south face by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, Bratkowski, Pytlakowski on, July 30; P 5000 (16,404 feet; above the Kotale Mondai) via south ridge by Graczyk. Paulo (from Wala expedition) on August 1.

Peaks above the Chapdara Valley. The Szczecin Mountain Club Expedition was led by Tadeusz Rewaj and composed of R. Ukielski, W. Lapinski, Barbara Lapinska, B. Komarnicki, J. Bryla, L. Jezierski, J. Palejczyk, A. Bohosiewicz and J. Budkowski. Base Camp was at Totuksaya in the upper Chapdara valley at 13,125 feet beside Nila Lake. They made the following ascents: P 4950 (16,240 feet) first ascent, from the southeast by Komarnicki, Palejczyk on July 15; Kohe Khwaja-Shagwa (18,323 feet), northwest peak (18,209 feet) and southeast peak (18,323 feet) from the northeast and over the northwest ridge by A. Bohosiewiecz, Lipinski on July 16 and 17; P 5014 (16,450 feet) first ascent, via northwest face and west ridge by Bryla, Komarnicki, Palejczyk, Rewaj on July 17; P 5336 (17,507 feet) first ascent, from the southeast, rock, by Komarnicki, Palejczyk on July 22; P 5500 (18,045 feet) first ascent, via northeast face, ice and rock, by Lipinski, Rewaj on July 23; P 5700 (18,701 feet) first ascent, from the southwest by Komarnicki, Palejczyk on July 28; P. 5580 (18,307 feet) first ascent, from the southeast by Budkowski, Rewaj on July 28; P 5100 (16,733 feet) first ascent, from the northwest by Budkowski, Ukielski on July 30. The members noted that the Kotale Parshui (Parshui Pass; c. 16,900 feet) is regularly used by natives to get from Nuristan to Badakhstan or vice versa. They also used Kotale Mondal (16,240 feet) and the col between P 5240 and P 5114 for communication between Peshashgal and Darrahe Rees.

Kohe Canigal (Kohe Parshui) and Other Peaks. The Academic Guide Section of Kraków Expedition was led by Marek Radwanski and composed of K. Gasiorowski, A. Lewicki, J. Sulowski, T. Domanski, L. German, A. Herbowski, J. Dziura, S. Maslanka, Barbara Skawinska, Zofia Musielewicz-Jasinska, Dr. S. Sklarczek, W. Semkowicz, Z. Tynor. They were in the Canigal valley near the Chapdara valley. Base Camp was at 13,000 feet and Camp I at 16,400 feet on the Canigal Glacier. The name Canigal seems to be the native name for what previously has been called Kohe Parshui or Kohe Parsho; it also apears on the ACI 1:250,000 and Advance Copy 1:50,000 maps. (On these maps Kohe Tunday Shagai Sha appears as Kohe Toluksay.) The following climbs were made: Kohe Canigal (Kohe Parshui; 19,718 feet) via the Canigal Glacier, northeast buttress and northwest ridge, ice, by Radwanski, Gasiorowski from August 10 to 12; P 5216 (17,113 feet) second ascent, from the southwest and the cirque via the west side, rock, by Lewicki, Sulowski on August 13; P 5288 (17,350 feet) first ascent, from the north to the col of 16,900 feet and thence via the west ridge by Radwanski, Domanski, Skawinska, Mulsielewicz-Jasinska on July 14; P 5300 (17,389 feet) traverse from south to north by Lewicki, Sulowski on August 13.