American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Northeast Hindu Kush

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Kohe Uparisina, Kohe Hevad and Other Peaks, Ishmurgh Valley. The Academic Alpine Club of Kraków Expedition was led by Janusz Maczka and composed of R. Bieniek, M. Kozik, L. Kozakiewicz, B. Strzelski, Ewa Panejko, A. Pawlik, J. Zajac, R. Urbanik, Ewa Domanska and Grzybowska. They placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the left side of the Ishmurgh Glacier. They made the following climbs: Kohe Spartakiada (16,667 feet; 3802) from the north via the ice slope by Strzelski, Urbanik, Bieniek on July 28; P 5850 (19,193 feet; 351) via east ridge, ice and rock, descent from small col on north ridge to the east with two rappels by Maczka, Kosakiewicz, Zajac from July 28 to 30; Kohe Dusti, north peak (20,965 feet; 362.2) from the east and up the northeast ridge on ice by Strzelski, Bieniek from July 30 to August 2; Kohe Hevad (22,450 feet; 353) from the east by the Czech route with two bivouacs on the glacier and one in the col by Strzelski, Bieniek, Zajac, Kosik from August 7 to 10; Kohe Dusti, south peak (21,111 feet; 362) and north peak, descent via northeast ridge by Kozik, Zajak on August 11; Kohe Uparisina, northeast peak (c. 20,500 feet; 381.3) first traverse, via north face and descent down northeast ridge by Bieniek, Strzelski, Urbanik from August 17 to 20; Lunkho-i Sharqi (c. 21,650 feet) first ascent, via north buttress, ice, by Ewa Panejko, Kosik, Zajac from August 18 to 21.

Kohe Hevad Attempt. A Kraków expedition was led by Karol Jakubowski and composed of W. Wisz, W. Burzynski, M. Kalmus, W. Biela, Krystyna Bieka, Dr. M. Paperz, W. Sekula, M. Jopkiewicz and Z. Adamik. They placed Base Camp at 15,100 feet in the Khandud valley and a high camp at 16,750 feet on the glacier. On July 30 and 31 all but the Bielas and Jakubowski climbed P 5850 (19,193 feet; 351) from the west up the glacier. They attempted the south ridge of Kohe Hevad but quit after reaching the fourth tower at 21,325 feet, still 1000 feet below the summit.

Pegish Zom I. The Academic Section of the Beskiden Guides of Warsaw sent an expedition led by Edmund Kuna to the Urgente Bala valley and the Kotgaz Glacier. They were Z. Pawlowski, Dr. Barbara Tyczynska, A. Wielocha, A. Sikova, P. Laskowski, J. Kowalczyk, Z. Pietruszka, W. Lewandowski and K. Stanek. Base Camp was at 15,100 feet and Advanced Base at 17,300 feet. They made the following ascents: Kohe Awal (19,029 feet; 281) by northeast ridge by Pawlowski, Laskowski, Lewandowski, Sikova, Kuna on July 19 and by Laskowski, Tyczynska, Wielocha, Kowalczyk, Stanek on July 23; Kohe Koanen (17,454 feet; 293B) second ascent by a new route, the south ridge by Kuna, Sikova on July 22; Pegish Zom I, north peak (20,568 feet; 294) and south peak (19,948 feet; 294 A) by the southeast ridge to the south peak by Pawlowski, Kowalczyk, Pietruszka, Lewandowski, Wielocha on July 28 and the south and north peaks by the south ridge by Kuna, Sikova, Laskowski and Pietruszka on July 31.

Kohe Tez, Akher Chaq and other Peaks. An expedition of the Academic Alpine Club of the Silesian University of Katowice was led by Kazimieriz Malczyk and composed of J. Dugala, T. Swiatkowski, M. Kulig, Dr. M. Rudnicki, R. Pawlowski, M. Stobierski, J. Mikolajczyk, M. Chwistek, A. Olszewski, R. Warecki, Z. Terlikowski and H. Szymik. They placed Base Camp at 16,250 feet in the Urgente Bala valley. They made the following climbs: Kohe Awal (19,029 feet; 281) by Satha-i Kraków and up the east ridge by all members from July 20 to 22; via new routes, the left couloir of the west face by Szymik, Rudnicki and the right couloir of the west face by Chwistek, Olszewski, Warecki both on July 24; P 5800 (19,029 feet; beside Kohe Awal) first ascent via south face by Pawlowski, Swiatkowski on July 24; Kohe Tez (23,015 feet; 268) via Shoghordok An and west ridge by Malczyk, Pawlowski, Kulig, Stobierski, Mikolajczyk, Dugala from July 26 to 28 and by Terlikowski, Rudnicki, Warecki, Olszewski, Chwistek, Swiatkowski from July 29 to 31; Camps were made at 19,000 feet and on the pass (Shoghordok An) at 21,325 feet; P 6920 (22,704 feet; 265) via the ridge from the Shoghordok An by Chwistek, Terlikowski on August 1; via a new route, the 7000-foot-high north face by Malczyk, Pawlowski, Kulig from July 31 to August 2; this peak has several names: Kohe Shan; Kohe Shah, Kohe Urgente Sharqi East, Gumbaze Urgent; Akher Chaq (23,032 feet) via a new route, the west buttress by Kulig, Pawlowski, Miakolajczyk from August 3 to 7.

Akher Chaq, Kohe Tez, Shayoz Zom. Led by Roman Tuliszka, the Academic Alpine Club of Poznan Expedition was composed of Dr. K. Flaczynski, T. Karolczak, J. Kolasa, J. Motyl, M. Paszkowski, P. Piasecki, M. Rutkowski, A. Sandowski, J. Smoczynski and J. Walczak. Base Camp was at 15,600 feet in the Urgente Bala valley and one high camp was at 17,225 feet on the Satha-i Kraków and another at 18,700 feet. They made the following ascents: Kohe Awal (19,029 feet) via Satha-i Kraków and the east ridge by Rutkowski, Sadowski, Motyl on July 21; Akher Chaq (23,032 feet) via Satha-i Kraków and the north slope (with camps at 18,700 and 20,375 feet), Kotale Bardar via the west ridge by Flaczynski, M. Paszkowski, Kolasa, Karolczak, Piasecki, Tuliszka from July 23 to 28; Kohe Dur (18,701 feet) from the south by Motyl, Smoczynski on July 27; Kohe Tez (23,015 feet; 268) via Shoghordok An and west ridge by Flaczynski, Motyl, Smoczynski from July 31 to August 1 and by Karolczak, Piasecki, Tuliszka on August 8; Shayok Zom (22,490 feet; 266) via a new route, the north ice face, 6500-feet-high, by Karolczak, Pawlowski (of the expedition immediately above) on July 31 to August 2; Shoghordan Zom (22,435 feet; 267) by Piasecki, Tuliszka, these latter two leaving the Shayok Zom route, high up on the north face.

Kohe Shakhaur, Two New Routes. An expedition of the Wroclaw Mountain Club was led by Janusz Kulis and composed of Dr. W. Jonak, A. Lwow, J. Pietkiewicz, M. Sajnog, S. Waclaw, K. Wielicki and J. Wilkonski. Base Camp was set up on August 8 where the Shakhaur and Atrafe Khale valleys join at 15,900 feet. They made two new routes on Kohe Shakhaur (23,347 feet; 168). The first was on the 8500-foot-high central buttress of the northeast face, done from August 9 to 13 by Lwow, Pietkiewicz and Wielicki, despite falling rock and ice. The other was on the northwest buttress of the northwest face and then up the easy final west snow ridge. This was done from August 12 to 16 by Kulis, Waclaw and Wilkonski. The first group descended the west ridge to the upper cirque of the north face of Kohe Nadir Shah and rappelled to the lower cirque and the Nadir Shah Glacier. The second group went down the right spur and rappelled down to the Nadir Shah Glacier. They then both went over the Kotale Sagerdha. This was new territory.

Nadir Shah. An expedition of the Polish Mountain Club, Warsaw was composed of Piotr Mlotecki, leader, S. Czerwinski, J. Wehr, Piotrowski, Turkiewicz, Kosinski, Urbinski, L. Radlo, Krasinska, M. Malinowski, F. and I. Stepien, Slupek, Z. Pawlowski, W. Malinowski and J. Zmija. Their Base Camp in the Shakhaur valley was at 13,125 feet. Radlo and Slupek climbed Wala Peak 164, on a ridge next to Kohe Hawar from the south on July 30. Czerwinski, Mlotecki and Wehr climbed Kohe Nadir Shah (22,356 feet; 137) from Yakhchale Shkawre Myani over the Kotale Sagerdha, the upper Nadir Shah Glacier, the Palane Safed col and the west ridge on August 8 and 9. They had wanted to continue on to Udren Zom, but after the second bivouac Czerwinski felt ill and they turned back. On the descent Jerzy Wehr fell 650 feet to his death.

Noshaq. An expedition from the Mountain Club of Torun was led by Wojciech Szymanski and composed of A. Klos, K. Mosingiewicz, L. Zalewski, S. Kardasz, T. Sobecki, W. Szczepaniak, Poles, and Dina Šterbova, Czech. On August 2 Klos, Szczepanik and Zalewski climbed Kharposhte Yakhi (18,597 feet; 86). Noshaq’s summit was reached by the normal route on August 12 by Mosingiewicz and on August 18 by Dina Šterbova and Zalewski. This was a new high-altitude record for Czech women.

2The numbers given after the altitudes refer to the numbers assigned to Hindu Kush peaks on Dr. Wala’s excellent maps.

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