American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Czech Expedition to Kohe Tez, Akher Chaq, Kohe Urgent and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Czech Expedition to Kohe Tez, Akher Chaq, Kohe Urgent and Other Peaks. The Czech High Tatras Expedition was led by Miloslav Neumann. The other members were Z. Drlik, Dr. L. Divald, M. Greisel, M. Kriššak, P. Macak, M. Pelc, V. Petrik and V. Tatarka. They set up Base Camp in the Urgente Bala valley at 15,250 feet, the site of the old Polish Base Camp of 1962. Other camps were at 18,700 feet (the 1962 Polish Camp I), 17,300 feet (Sathai Kraków), 21,250 feet (Kotale Bardar) and 21,325 feet (Shoghordok An). Kohe Tez (23,015 feet; 268*) was climbed via the Shoghordok An and the west side by Divald, Kriššak and Tataka on June 28, by Drlik and Pelc on July 1 and by Greisel and Macak on July 9. Divald climbed P 5800 (19,029 feet; next to Kohe Awal) via the south face on July 2. Akher Chaq (23,032 feet; 269) was climbed first via the northeast face of Kohe Tez, Kotale Bardar and its southwest ridge by Neumann and Petrik on July 5 and 6, and then via the north ridge, a new and difficult mixed route of 3600 feet, by Drlik, Kriššak, Pelc and Tatarka on July 6 and 7. They all descended to the camp on the Kotale Bardar. From there on July 8 and 9 they traversed Kohe Tez. On July 11 Drlik, Kriššak and Neumann traversed Shoghordok Zom (22,435 feet) and Shayok Zom (22,474 feet) and on the 12th P 6920 (22,704 feet) and Kohe Urgent (23,091 feet; 258) and came back to the Shoghordok An. They returned to Base Camp on July 13. Divald climbed Shoghordok Zom from the east on July 9.

Jerzy Wala, Klub Wysokogórski, Kraków, Poland

*These numbers refer to the Wala Peak numbers given by Dr. Wala to identify peaks on the fine maps which the Polish Hindu Kush authority has published.

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