American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Tirich North Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Tirich North Attempt. The members of our expedition were J. Baehler, R. Bregnard, C. Fasel, P. Hofmann, R. Zanon and I. We approached via Chitral, Zani Pass, Shagrom, Atak and the upper Tirich Mir Glacier. We attempted from July 2 to August 7 the north spur of Tirich North (22,086 feet), which is north of Tirich Mir. This route was climbed by Kurt Diemberger in 1966. Base Camp was at 15,100 feet at the foot of the spur. It was an interesting, steep, mixed route. We placed camps at 16,750, 18,375 and 20,000 feet. The high point of 21,000 feet was reached by Baehler, Hofmann and Zanon. We simply lacked time, being tied to another group and having a fixed return date. The price of porters is very high. For example for 2½ days from Shagrom we had to pay per porter $35 (US). Moreover administrative formalities led to loss of time.

Jean-Jacques Asper, Club Alpin Suisse

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.