American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Saraghrar, Southwest Buttress Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Saraghrar, Southwest Buttress Attempt. The difficulties on the southwest buttress of 24,075-foot Saraghrar do not decrease all along the great buttress. The foot of the wall is at 16,575 feet, making the wall 7500 feet high. Spaniards made a first attempt in 1975. (See A.A.J., 1976, pp. 547-8 for photo and text.) After 39 days on the wall, the eight climbers had placed a camp at the foot of the wall and three on it. Bad weather and lack of time turned us back at 19,750 feet. In 1977 Jordi Pons, Jaime Altadill, José Manuel Anglada, Joan Cerda, Joan Claramunt, Jordi Colomer, Joan Massons, José Luis Pérez, Dr. Anton Rañe, Genis Roca, Francisco Sabat and I as leader reached Base Camp at Totiraz Noku (13,650 feet) on June 24. We passed the 1975 high point and continued along a very severe section to where the buttress looks less steep. During the following weeks we placed Camps V and VI, overcoming new difficulties. At 20,850 feet the buttress butted into the wall and it became obvious that on this difficult section camps would have to be suspended from ropes; more food, ropes and gear would have to be brought from the bottom of the wall. Therefore the attempt was given up. We left Base Camp on August 2.

Ramon Bramona Rams, Unió Excursionista de Catalunya

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