American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Chogolisa Southwest

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Chogolisa Southwest. There are two summits southwest of Chogolisa which rise to about 7000 meters or 22,966 feet. The western-most one, about two miles from Chogolisa, was climbed by a 13-man Japanese party led by Hiroaki Akiyama by its northwest ridge from the glacier west of the peak. They went from Khapalu up the Hushe valley to set up Base Camp on June 14 at 14,100 feet on the east bank of the Chogolisa Glacier. Camp I was established at 15,425 feet on June 21 and Camp II at 17,225 feet on the snow plateau above the icefall on the 29th. Camp III was set up near the northwest col at 19,200 feet on July 5. Camp IV was made on the northwest ridge on July 10. On July 14 Mitsuo Yajima, Sanji Kobayashi, Tetsuo Nakamura and Shoichi Yasuji climbed to the top in eight hours. On the 22nd Hiroshi Narita, Minoru Osawa and Akio Kida set out from Camp III at one A.M. and got to the summit at 2:45 P.M. (More details will be found in Iwa To Yuki.)

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