Z8 and Z2, Zanskar Group, Ladakh. Our expedition consisted of my wife Silvia Metzeltin-Buscaini, Maurizio Gaetani, Lia Risari-Gaetani, Alda Nicora and me. We placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the Pensi La, southeast of Nun and Kun. On July 26 my wife, Gaetani and I made the first ascent of Z8 (19,850 feet) by its west-northwest ridge. The peak lies south of the Pensi La. On a five-day trip, my wife and I went west across a 17,225-foot pass from the Pensi Glacier to the Rumdum Glacier, up the latter to make on July 31 the first ascent of Z2 (20,260 feet) by its south ridge, and then back to Base Camp.
Gino Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano