American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, India, Kashmir and Jammu, Barnaj II, South Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Barnaj II, South Peak. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Nobuyoshi Kubo had permission to climb Barnaj I. After getting to Base Camp at 13,125 feet in the Barnaji Nala on May 22, they gave up the idea of climbing Barnaj I because of three dangerous hanging glaciers. They worked out a route on the glacier under the west face of Barnaj II (20,637 feet), hoping to traverse the ridge from Barnaj II to Barnaj I. However the liaison officer forbade them to go ahead with the traverse, saying the permission was only for Barnaj I. They established Camps I, II and III at 15,425, 17,225 and 18,875 feet on May 26, June 2 and 11 respectively. All members and the liaison officer climbed P 6150 (20,177 feet) and P 6170 (20,243 feet) on June 13 and 14. Although the liaison officer reported to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation that they had climbed Barnaj I, the maps show the latter peak to be west of Barnaj II. The peaks they climbed were south of Barnaj II and slightly short of its summit.

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