American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, P 20,570 Karcha Nala, Spiti

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

P 20,570, Karcha Nala, Spiti. Our expedition was made up of John Forsythe, Dr. Foster Kelly, John Kerr, Peter Lamont, Terry Mooney and Tara Chand. On September 4 we arrived in the Kulu valley to find that the monsoon rains still affected the area and that Hanuman Tibba was out of condition. We decided to make an excursion to the Karcha Nala in Spiti to attempt P 20,570. Base Camp was established at 14,400 feet in the Karcha Nala on September 15 below the west ridge of P 20,570. On the 17th Forsythe, Kerr, Chand and I left Base Camp and climbed to 17,300 feet on the west ridge and dumped food and gear. We regained this point the next day and made a high camp at 17,500 feet. At 3:30 A.M. on the 19th we left camp, climbed the west ridge and reached the summit at noon. The route was generally straightforward, ropes being used only to deal with a few loose pitches above 19,500 feet. We descended the west face but dangerous snow conditions forced us to bivouac until the cold of night improved conditions. We reached the tent at two A.M. on the 20th. Bad weather and dangerous snow conditions frustrated an attempt on Hanuman Tibba in early October.

Michael F. Curran, Irish Himalayan Expedition

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