Bethartoli South. A ten-man expedition plus leader, Lute Jerstad, and Liaison Officer, Sudhir Sahi, left Delhi May 10. With 35 porters and 150 goats, we left Lata May 15 and crossed Dharansi Pass four days later in deep snow after a forced bivouac on the pass which porters refused to cross. Base Camp was established at Tridang on the Trisul Glacier. The route was established on the east side of Bethartoli South to avoid the cwm and hanging glaciers made dangerous by fresh snow. Camp I was established at 18,000 feet, and Camp II at 19,600 feet. Fixed ropes were utilized all the way from Camp II to the summit of the south peak, up some steep ice walls and narrow ridges plastered with hard water ice. From the summit of Bethartoli South (20,730 feet) we tried to descend to the saddle between the main and south peak, about an 800-foot descent. After several frustrating hours floundering in waist-deep snow, the saddle was reached by Tony Watkin and John Nanson. A third camp would have to be established on the col in dangerous avalanche conditions to launch an attempt on the main peak (20,840 feet). As there was no safe way of circumventing the south peak, and blizzard and white-out conditions occurred every day after ten A.M., the attempt was abandoned. Nine members and three sherpas reached the south summit via the new route. The expedition returned from Base Camp to Lata in three days. It had taken 13 to reach it. Members: Lute Jerstad, leader, John Nanson, M.D., Robert Arnot, M.D., Bruce McCubbrey, Tony Watkin, Willis Crouse, Joe Wagner, Karl Gerdes, Jerry Tinling, Jerome Corr, Peter Albert. Liaison Officer: Sudhir Sahi. Sherpas: Dawa Gyelgen, Gyelgen, Pinzu, Nima Norbu, Bal Ram.

Luther G. Jerstad