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Asia, India, Garhwal, Rishikot

Rishikot. Our expedition was composed of Dr. John Coxon, Dave Harper, Mark Pezarro, Tim Hurrell and me as leader, plus Tim Reed and Jenny Williams doing scientific work. We attempted two routes on Rishikot, first up the southeast face directly toward the summit. Most of the route was up broken rock and scree, posing no difficulties; however, 400 feet from the top the rock became steeper but just as loose, and we retreated. The second and successful route followed a snow gully to the Rishikot-Changabang ridge where Hurrell and Coxon dug a snow cave. The following day, August 20, they completed the route up the ridge to the summit (20,460 feet). Although nowhere technically difficult, the exposure was tremendous along the quarter-mile traverse of the snowy ridge with drops of several thousand feet on either side. They descended that same day to Advanced Base while Pezarro and I occupied the snow cave. On the 21st we two reached the top. Unfortunately on the way back, Mark dropped his ice axe, causing us a lengthy descent. Although we had been told the peak was previously unclimbed, we found a couple of rusty cans on top, which had been there at least one season. One of the porters reported that a colonel of the Indian Army had climbed the mountain the previous season. We also climbed on the third attempt snowy P 6014 (19,731 feet) northeast along the Rishikot-Changabang ridge, at the head of the Rishikot Glacier. The top was reached on August 17 by Hurrell and Coxon, following a route straight up the face.

Martin Gledhill, England