American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Garhwal, Changabang Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Changabang Attempt. Our group consisted of five Australians, Charles Cuthbertson, Martin Hendy, Malcolm Noble, Andrew Henderson and me. Unfortunately we did not reach the summit of Changabang but were turned back about 125 feet from the top by atrocious weather. Our route started from the Changabang Glacier. We climbed a large snow gully on the far right side of Kalanka until we could traverse under Kalanka to gain the col between it and Changabang. From the col we followed the east ridge. After many delays we reached Base Camp on September 17 and placed Advanced Base on the 24th at the head of the glacier. All members left the latter for the summit on September 27, but two had to return, one with altitude problems and the other with an inflamed ankle. Hendy, Henderson and Noble continued. They were on the mountain for six days and returned completely exhausted.

Gary Mathew, Sydney Rockclimbing Club, Australia

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