American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kangchunne or Kagmara, Kanjiroba Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Kangchunne or Kagmara, Kanjiroba Himal. Koji Mizutani was the climbing leader of a five-man-and-a-woman expedition of the Osaka Alpine Club to Kangchunne (also called Kagmara; 21,140 feet). Base Camp was set up on March 28 at 13,850 feet below Lha Shamma and Camp I on April 4 at 16,250 feet just under the southeast col. They crossed the col and traversed the glacier on the east side of the mountain to set up Camp II at 16,500 feet on April 12 and Camp III at 18,000 feet on April 22. They reached the snow ridge between Lha Shamma and Kangschunne south of P 6070 (19,915 feet), on the top of which they established Camp IV on April 27. After a few rope- lengths along the ridge eastward towards Kangchunne, knife-edges and technical difficulties turned them back and they quit on April 29. Throughout they were plagued by bad weather and deep snow.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

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