Mont Blanc Chain, France. First Ascent of Dru Couloir Direct, Aiguille du Drus. (Grade ED Sup): Early in August Riccardo (Rick) Accomazzo and I climbed this prominent couloir in just over two-and-a-half days. Previous ascents had traversed to the left for 700 feet to avoid the couloir at its most difficult section. Our route was to follow straight up into this narrow and steep portion. It was on this section, after 800 feet of 60° ice, that we found five horror pitches of vertical and overhanging ice with two short aid sections (40 feet A3). The second day we reached the final couloir which ran for 1000 feet with an average angle of 70°. This route is now considered the most difficult ice climb in Europe. First Ascent of Sorenson/Smith Couloir, West Face, Aiguille du Plan (Grade ED): Gordon Smith of Scotland and I joined forces late one morning and began this climb at noon. Twenty-four hours later we arrived on top. The route lies to the right of the Gabarrow/Picard-Dyme route and leads directly to the summit. The climbing involved both difficult rock and ice of the finest quality. First Ascent of Eastman/Sorenson Couloir, Northwest Face, Col du Requin, (Grade ED): This climb is very similar to Point Five Gully of Scotland. The ice is both sustained and enjoyable for 1500 feet. Todd Eastman of Virginia and I took about seven hours for the climb in late September. This is destined to become a modern classic. Second Ascent of Desmaison Route, North Face, Grandes Jorasses (Grade ED Sup) : This climb took Gordon Smith and me two-and-a-half days. It involved difficult and sustained climbing for 4000 feet. Throughout the entire climb we never found a ledge adequate to stand or sit on; therefore, all belays and bivouacs were either hanging or semihanging. This lack of ledges tends to exhaust one tremendously and several times we found ourselves wearily front-pointing long into the night looking for a place to stay. On the third morning the weather turned bad with high winds and snow. Gordon’s right foot began to suffer from frostbite and I felt the effects of injuries from a fifty-foot fall off an overhang just above the bivouac. With the haunting knowledge of Gousseault’s death in this same place, our own poor condition and strength fading fast, the race was on. We finally came to our senses on the summit.

Tobin Sorenson