South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Peaks in Ancohuma Group

Publication Year: 1978.

Peaks in Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real. Our expedition was composed of Jesús Herrero, leader, Francisco Granero, Juan Ramón Portillo, Julio Armesto, Felix Alonso, José Luis Pérez, the Argentine Gabriel Cabrera and me. From Mina Candelaria we moved to Base Camp at 15,335 feet on Lake Chearcota. We had high camps on the Cooco Glacier at 17,400 feet, in the Mamaniri region at 18,200 feet and in the Ancohuma region at 18,700 feet. We made the following ascents: Viluyo III (18,350 feet), 4th ascent; Viluyo II (18,900 feet), 3rd ascent both on July 7 by Pérez, Armesto, Alonso; Mamaniri (19,587 feet), 2nd ascent, a difficult peak; Kanaazul (18,373 feet), 1st ascent both on July 15 by Faus, Cabrera; Suña Uñyaña I (18,182 feet), 1st ascent; Suña Uñyaña II (18,603 feet), 1st ascent both solo by Portillo on July 20; Ancohuma (21,095 feet) by the north ridge on July 22 by Alonso, Armesto, Pérez; Vista Alegre (17,061 feet), 1st ascent on July 23 by Faus and Granero. We were in the range from July 6 to 26. At first we did not want to have the locals act as porters, but hired them later. We should have saved ourselves much effort if we had let them do so from the beginning. We shipped baggage by boat to Bolivia. This was a mistake since it took a long time to arrive and to clear customs. We should have taken the essentials with us by plane.

Agustín Faus Costa, Club Deportivo Aralar, Spain