South America, Bolivia, Illimani, North Ridge and Peaks in Condoriri Group

Climb Year: N/A. Publication Year: 1978.

Illimani, North Ridge and Peaks in Condoriri Group. Thirteen members of the Club Alpino Italiano, Lucca, climbed in the southern Cordillera Real in June and July 1976. In the Condoriri group they made ascents to Huallomen (5463 meters, 17,920 feet), Fabulosa (5370 meters, 17,618 feet), Jisthaña (5260 meters, 17,257 feet), Ilusión (5330 meters, 17,487 feet) and Ilusioncita (5150 meters, 16,897 feet). Base Camp was thereafter transferred to the northwest flank of Illimani, a side that has been little known to climbers. The leader, Cosimo Zap- pelli, and L. Cosson and A. Sarteschi, climbed the north ridge1 of a peak given as 6402 meters high (21,004 feet), and believed to be the highest summit of the mountain. P. Ferraris and A. Gelmi climbed a peak north of the latter, 6260 meters high (20,538 feet) and finally, five climbers traversed the long northwest ridge of Illimani and reached the top of P 6102 meters (20,020 feet) whose name was given to them as Pico del Indio.2 Zappelli believes that the last two are well defined peaks and could be properly called mountains. (Information from Lo Scar pone and Signor C. Zappelli).

Evelio Echevarria

1 First climbed by Spaniards in 1969. (See A.A.J., 1970, pages 172-3.) It seems possible that the other Italian ascent, that of the northwest ridge, may be a repeat of the route done by Argentines in 1970. (See A.A.J., 1971, page 424.)—Editor.

2 Insofar as Illimani has always been approached by climbers from its northwest, west or southwest sides, any attempt from the remaining sides will lead to confusion since there exists no information as to the number of peaks that may exist there. Illimani, rather than a mountain, is a true range. In 1877 Charles Wiener and some natives ascended to a point in the south side, which he gave as 6131 meters high (aneroid) and which he named Pic de Paris. In 1898 Lord Conway and guides climbed the main (south) peak, traversing en route Pic de Paris (which Conway named Pico del Indio, after a legendary shepherd who tried Illimani alone never to return). In 1928 Erwin Hein alone ascended the prominent high point on the north ridge of the north peak. The latter was ascended for the first time in 1950 by Ertl and Schroeder. Finally, Bolivian climbers made the first ascent of the central peak in the 1950’s. Peaks that exist on the northeast, east or southeast slopes of Illimani have so far gone unnoticed. However, the Italian party mentioned above was given in Bolivia erroneous information, since the names of Pico de Paris and Pico del Indio were given last century to a peak on the opposite side of the mountain. Until further information that would clear names, position and heights of the Illimani peaks is supplied, reports have to be published as provided by expeditions. Evelio Echevarría.