Jatunhuma, West Face. On August 14 our expedition from the Brescia Section of the Italian Alpine Club from Hacienda Tinqui crossed the 16,650-foot Pacchanta Pass to place Base Camp on the shores of Ticllacocha at 15,750 feet. We established a high camp at 17,400 feet below the west face, fixing rope at the only difficult spot, the beginning of the glacier. Our objective was the left spur of the face, which led directly to the summit. On August 19 we pushed the route to the prominent first tower at 18,375 feet, having found our way through crevasses, up a steep couloir and then another nearly vertical 125-foot couloir. Above the tower the difficulties seemed to diminish. We descended to our high camp. On August 20 Italo Bazani, Gian Marco Pelizzari, our leader Pierangelo Chiaudano and I, with Massimo Sanavio in support up to the rock tower, headed for the summit. Above the tower, we skirted a steep icefall on the right and climbed back to the steep ridge. The traverse back onto the ridge crest ended in nearly vertical rotten ice, where we succeeded after various tries. We climbed another 500 feet up a steep open couloir to a frigid bivouac by a sérac at 19,000 feet. On August 21 we climbed a long, wide couloir under a barrier of threatening séracs. These forced us to cross the couloir to the extreme left and to emerge, using direct aid. From there one diagonal pitch and one straight up took us to the summit (19,996 feet). We rappelled down the face to the beginning of the fixed ropes.

Piero Favalli, Club Alpino Italiano