Jirishanca, West Face. Our expedition was supported by the Universities of Madrid and Granada. On July 2 Eloy Linares, Santiago Barrios, José Antonio Menéndez and I, supported by Joaquín Susino and Antonio Lorente, completed the second ascent of the Cassin route on the west face of Jirishanca. We approached the wall from the El Toro-Jirishanca col. The bergschrund was very difficult. The first 2000 feet on the wall, to where we got onto the middle rib, was of hard ice. The middle rib is really hardly a rib, being changed by séracs. We bivouacked on both the ascent and descent at 18,875 feet, where the rib begins. The exit to the summit ridge took time in nearly vertical powder snow. The weather was generally good.

José Manuel Cuevas, Universidad de Madrid