South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá Sur, West Face Attempt, Tsacra Chico and Other Peaks

Publication Year: 1978.

Yerupajá Sur, West Face Attempt, Tsacra Chico and Other Peaks. The Stuttgart Section of the DAV Expedition had as members Ernst Schillingen Gerhard Esche, Joachim Köninger, Rainier Schlump, E. Strobel and me as leader. We climbed in June above the Quebrada Rasac. Strobel, Köninger, Schillinger and Schlump climbed Tsacra Chico (18,254 feet) by the northeast face, which was hard snow up to 45°. This climb was later repeated by Esche and me. Esche and I climbed P 5036 (16,523 feet). Stroble and Schlump made the ascent of the east face of the middle summit of Rasac (c. 6000 meters or 19,685 feet) on very rotten rock. Schillinger, Köninger, Esche and I made the second ascent of TAM Sur (17,907 feet) up the southwest face, the Stuarfer Buttress. (TAM Sur and Norte lie west of Jirishanca and Yerupajá Chico.) The first attempt on the west face of the south summit of Yerupajá by Strobel and Schlump ended on the south shoulder and the second one by Schillinger and Köninger was stopped a rope-length from the top (21,375 feet) by cornices and threat of falling ice. I soloed P 5063 or Minapata (16,624 feet). Esche and Schillinger made the second ascent of TAM Norte (17,907 feet) and the first of the ice spur on the west buttress on 60° ice. I also soloed Rasac Norte (17,220 feet) by the west and north ridges.

Roland Stierle, Deutscher Alpenverein