South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte, Pisco

Author: Andrzej Kuś. Climb Year: 1977. Publication Year: 1978.

image_1Huandoy Norte, Pisco. The expedition of the Klub Wysokogórski, Posnan, led by Stanislaw Zierhoffer, had hoped to climb the south face of Huandoy Sur, but found that it had already been done. They turned to Huandoy Norte. On August 17 and 18, 1976 Jerzy Marcinkowski, J. Stryczynski and Wlodzimierz Waligóra climbed its east face. The lower part of the route was on rocks to the right of the buttress in the middle of the face. It then reached the buttress and later went to the right to a system of couloirs and small ice buttresses. The route reached the ridge only 10 minutes from the summit. The party bivouacked in an ice hole. The slope grew steadily steeper and was most difficult above the bivouac, especially on the last overhanging ice just below the ridge. Unstable snow and ice would not take ice screws or pitons properly. On August 11 Roman Tuliszka and Marcinkowski climbed the southeast buttress of Pisco Oeste.

Andrzej Kus, Polski Zwiazek Alpinizmu, Poland



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