American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, North Face, Solo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Huascarán Norte, North Face, Solo. Renato Casarotto climbed the north face of Huascarán Norte solo in sixteen days from June 5 to 21, cut off from direct contact with his base except by radio with his wife Goretta, who waited in a tent at the Llanganuco Lakes at the bottom of the climb. He described the climb as being of all grades of difficulty up to UIAA VI+ and direct aid. It was on snow, ice, smooth slabs, solid granite and rotten rock. Having some 90 pounds of equipment and food, Casarotto stated that he really had to climb the route three or four times, first to fix the route, then to carry his supplies up and finally to clean the route. The sun shone on only one day. Most of the time it was cold, snowy and windy. For the last three days he was without food. After completing the ascent late on June 21, in an hour and a half he descended to the Garganta between Huascarán Norte and the main peak for a final cold bivouac in the snow without his sleeping bag, which he had lost at the end of the climb.

Celso Salvetti, Club Alpino Italiano

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