American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Pico Ojeda, Northeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Pico Ojeda, Northeast Face, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and I made the first ascent of this face from January 13 to 15, 1978, including the approach. The face seems to be the largest in the range, vertically higher and steeper than the north face of Colón which we did last year. The route began on the avalanche cone the furthest to the right. Some 15 pitches led straight up to below a prominent hanging glacier on the right side of the face. Two pitches bypassed the glacier to the right and we reached the north ridge which we followed for three pitches to its end. The two final pitches on the north-northwest face led through cornices to the ridge just west of the summit (18,012 feet). This face is never in the sunlight and in certain parts we encountered very steep unconsolidated sugar snow.

William McKinney

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