American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Stauning Alper

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Stauning Alper. We traveled from Mestersvig along Kong Oscar Fjord and Alpejord by rubber boat past the common front of the Gully and Sefström Glaciers to enter the Dammen, where we placed Base Camp. High Camp was at 3450 feet up the Sefström Glacier. On July 26 Guy Lemoine, Jacques Regnard, Jean Thérisod and I made the first ascent of the northwest face of Kapelle (c. 6725 feet). We headed up the Tantallon cirque and climbed up the glacier to the face. The bergschrund was difficult and the final slopes 60°. On July 25 and 26 Victor Lant and Michel LeGrèves made the first ascent of the northwest spur of Sidney (c. 7550 feet). They ascended the Cantabrae Glacier, turned the first rock pillar on the right and climbed the second 2000-foot pillar on generally good but uneven rock. Lemoine and Lant made on August 1 the second ascent of the north ridge and east face of Sefströmgipfel (c. 8850 feet). They ascended the Sefström Glacier to the cirque at its head, climbed a snow couloir to reach the north ridge, which led to a glacial plateau. They crossed this to the final east face, which they climbed on broken rock. LeGrèves and I on August 1 made the first ascent of an unnamed peak (c. 7710 feet), a half-mile southeast of Emmanuel. From near the head of the Sefström, we turned on the left a rock step on 50° ice. An easy snow ridge led to the foot of the second 1300-foot step, which we climbed on rock and mixed ground to reach the steep summit snow slopes. Also on August 1 Yvette and Guy Jupin, Regnard and Thérisot made the first ascent of the southeast couloir of the unnamed peak (c. 5575 feet) which lies between Lennox and Tioram. They ascended the Tioram Glacier and climbed the second couloir on the right to its top to gain the northeast ridge.

André Zagdoun, Club Alpin Français

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