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North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Baffin Island, Mount Friga, West Face, and "Watchtower," Northwest Ridge

Mount Friga, West Face, and “Watchtower,” Northwest Ridge, Baffin Island. In July and August, 1976, Phil Bartlett and I made numerous ascents, including two new ascents. “The Watchtower,” as we christened the peak, is a rock tower (c. 5500 feet) which lies above a glacier which drops to the Weasel valley just south of Tyr Peak. On our second attempt we made a 2000-foot rock route up the northwest ridge in 23 hours. The lower and upper thirds were of sustained UIAA V and V+ with 60 aid points. Tremendous slabs and crack climbing (IV) were encountered in the middle section. We did a new route on the long and previously unclimbed west face of Mount Friga. The 3000 feet of climbing took 8½ hours and had considerable objective dangers. There was little difficult rock but the ice and mixed climbing were up to Scottish Grade IV.

Steven Parr, Alpine Climbing Group