American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Bryce, Center Peak, Northwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Mount Bryce, Center Peak, Northwest Face. Hale and Winner climbed this peak’s 3600-foot northwest face in August. Approach was made via the Saskatchewan and Castleguard Glaciers. Instead of descending to Bryce Creek, a traverse was made left from Castleguard Glacier toward the northwest face of the massif. A hanging glacier gives access to the base of the face. The climb began between an obvious chimney to the left, and a waterfall. The first pitch was enjoyable F7 on sound rock, and the remaining 1000 feet or so of rock was third class. Conditions on the upper face began as water ice, but quickly changed to crusted snow, too firm to kick steps, but too soft to hold tools, it was exciting stuff. Exit was made directly at the summit after 7 hours on the face. Descent took 10 hours via the east ridge (normal route).

Randy Winner, Turtles Climbing Group, Missoula

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