American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Logan Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Logan Mountains. The first Austrian Big Wall Expedition was composed of Gustav Ammerer, Michael Hoffman, Karl Kosa, Hilda and Rudi Lindner, Ernst Machacek, Erwin Weilguny and me. The aim of the expedition was to practice extreme rock-climbing under absolutely isolated conditions. We climbed in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. Climbing was possible only on a few days because of bad weather. When it was raining, the lichen-covered rocks were extremely slippery. All ascents had to be done in a short period and under great physical strain. Of the 30 days spent in the area, twelve were sunny, six changeable and the rest rainy. We made the following ascents: Lotus Flower Tower, height of wall: 2080 feet, UIAA difficulty; V+, A2, time: 30 hours on August 1-3 by Kosa, Lackner, Weilguny, Machacek, Ammerer and on August 9-11 by H. and R. Lindner; Middle Huey’s Spire, first ascent of south face, height of wall: 990 feet, VI, A2-A3, time: 17 hours on August 7-9 by Kosa, Weilguny, Lackner; Flat Top, first ascent of southeast wall, height of wall: 1650 feet, V+, Al, time: 20 hours on August 13-14 by Kosa, Lackner, Weilguny; Phenocryst Spire, first ascent of south buttress, height: 1980 feet, V+, Al, time: 15 hours on August 3-4 by H. and R. Lindner; Bustle Tower, first ascent of southeast dihedral, height: 1320 feet, VI–, A2, time: 18 hours on August 9-10 by Machacek, Ammerer; Bustle Tower Sub-Peak, first ascent of southwest wall, height: 660 feet, VI, Al, time: 8½ hours on August 14 by Ammerer, Machacek; Proboscis, first ascent of northeast wall, height: 1650 feet, VI, A2, time: 17 hours on August 19-20 by Kosa, Ammerer, Weilguny.

Erich Lackner, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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