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North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, South-Southwest Spur Attempt

Mount Logan, South-Southwest Spur Attempt. Urs Kallen, Dave Lloyd, Murray Toft, Dick Renshaw, Ron Langevin and I arrived at Base Camp below the south-southwest spur of Mount Logan on May 27. Between May 28 and June 9 we fixed 6000 feet of rope up the spur. We placed Camp I at 11,800 feet at the top of the couloir which drops from the col between “Teddy” and the spur proper, cut into a 60° ice slope as the col was unsuitable for a camp. We reached our high point on June 9 at 13,500 feet, the projected site for Camp II, a good one on a small and stable hanging glacier. The climbing on the 4000 feet we did climb was continually steep and technical but nowhere extreme. We had one rock pitch of F8 and much of the ice and snow was steep (50° to 70°). The climb itself was objectively safe. The couloir was climbed at night when it was inactive. However the approach was another story. We approached the mountain via the small basin immediately east of “Teddy.” Regularly large ice avalanches filled the basin and one completely wiped out our route for about two miles.

Charles Scott, Canadian Alpine Club