North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

Publication Year: 1978.

Mount Logan. Mount Logan was by far the most popular mountain with nine expeditions: 6 via the King Trench route, 1 via the east ridge, 1 via the south-southeast spur and one attempt on the southwest ridge and south face. The following climbed via King Trench: Nishiyama Alpine Club of Tokyo, Japan, Hiroaki Takahashi, Keneichi Tamazaki, Hideki Okude and Kazuo Sudou; Muroran Gakuin Mountaineering Club of Hokkaido, Japan, Mituya Abe, Minoru Tanimira, Koichi Hashimoto, Hideo Tanaka, Shigeaki Tanaka, Shingeshito Hoshi, Toshie Morehasi and Mikiko Katayama; Logan ’77 of Calgary, the first all-woman ascent of Mount Logan, Judy Sterner, Lorraine Drews, Katherine Calvert, Sharron Wood, Diana Kvaah and Kathy Langill; Western Oregon Expedition, Arnold McMillen, Eldon Sharon, David Affolter and Dwight West; Mount Logan Expedition of Banff, Kobi Wyss, Edi Bohren, Ernst Salz-geten, JoAnn Creare, Hans Peter Stettler, Cathy White, John Adler and Ursula von Maydell; Alaska Alpine Club Mount Logan Expedition, William Babcock, Randall Hamsik, David Staeheli, Mosa Mohammed and Todd Miner. Dr. Barry Hagen, David Wood and Robert Banfield reached the summit of Mount Logan via the east ridge on June 12. David Isles became ill during the ascent, descended painfully from the highest camp and was evacuated from 13,900 feet by the Kluane Park Warden Service, using winch equipment from an Allouette III Helicopter on June 14. He was suffering from cerebral and pulmonary edema as well as frostbite and was released from the Whitehorse General Hospital after 10 days. Charles Scott, Urs Kallen, Ron Langevin, Murray Taft, David Lloyd and Richard Renshaw attempted the unclimbed south-southwest spur. The group left the mountain after a stretch of poor weather caused unfavorable climbing conditions. (See the account of the first ascent of the east-southeast spur below.)

Ronald Frey, Park Warden, Kluane National Park