American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Moab Area

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Moab Area. David Mondeau and Marty Barcus made the first ascent of Chimney Smoke in Westwater Canyon in July or August, 1976. The sandstone tower was reported to be NCCS III, F8, A2. Lou Dawson and Don Peterson climbed Rimrock Crack to the left of Artist’s Tears, probably the first free ascent. F10. Jim Dunn, Stewart Green and Bill Westbay climbed a new route on popular Castleton Tower in Castle Valley about 30 miles east of Moab. The route followed the obvious crack system on the west face. Dunn feels future ascents should go free. NCCS III, F10, A3. Dunn and Doug Snively did the second ascent of the north face of Castleton Tower, thinking it was a first. They found it had been done a week before by French, whose names are not known. NCCS III, F10, A3. The original route on the tower was soloed free by Mark Hesse, who used protection, a bolt, only on the third pitch. F9. Ken Wyrick and party made the first ascent of a prominent rock outcrop located six miles south of “Hole-in-the-Rock” (20 miles south of Moab). The unnamed 300-foot fin is easily seen by looking east from Highway 163. It was ascended via its north ridge. They rappelled from bolts down the south face. NCCS II, F5, A3. Previously unreported, the 200-foot Green Crack was first done in 1972 by Steve Chaney and John Hall and next by Doug Snively and Jim Dunn in 1974. The climb is located 1½ miles from Highway 163 on the river highway of 128. Used were eight bolts and pitons of 4", 2½", ¾", several small angles and two lost arrows. NCCS III, F9, A3. I believe the canyon formerly known as Niggerbill Canyon has been changed on recent maps to Black Bill Canyon. It is the first canyon beyond Sheep Canyon on Highway 128 from Moab. About 200 yards up the canyon Black Bill Flake will appear obvious on the right walls. It was first climbed by Earl Wiggins, Chris Wood and Jim Dunn. NCCS III, F10, A4. About a mile from Highway 163 on 128 is a fracture line, the Sorcerer, which was first climbed by Chris Wood and Jim Dunn up the left side of the largest flake. NCCS III, F10, A1.

Eric Bjørnstad

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