AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Needles, Warlock Needle, Imaginary Voyage

The Needles, Warlock Needle, Imaginary Voyage. In August Dick Leversee and I made an ascent of this five-pitch route up the east face of Warlock Needle. The first lead starts in a long, left-slanting jam- crack on the right-hand portion of the east face. Steep jamming ends at a semi-hanging belay far up the wall. The second pitch continues up the diminishing jam-crack to where one must step out of the crack and face-climb upwards to a short left-facing open-book and a sloping belay ledge below a chimney. Steep buckets lead up to the chimney. Climb the chimney to a small ledge below huge blocks. A right-facing corner and a ramp take one to the terrace below the summit block. We climbed the summit block free just to the right of the bolt ladder (F8). NCCS II, F8.

Edwin C. Joe, unaffiliated