American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Forbidden, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Mount Forbidden, South Face. Craig McKibben and I made a new route in July on the south face that ascends directly to the summit and lies 150 to 200 feet to the right of the other south-face route. We started on right-hand slabs 100 feet below a five-foot, blue-green streak of copper mineral. From a belay twenty feet below the streak we climbed left and up to a horn, then left again and up sixty feet to a belay alcove (F9). The third lead traversed left forty feet then climbed up and right another seventy feet. The fourth lead climbed left through a roof onto easy ground. The next lead was easy and for the next four leads we climbed straight up. Leads number seven and eight were in a right-facing open-book and the ninth had a very hard start getting into a left-facing book (F9 or 10). We traversed right on lead ten to a large ledge then climbed straight up steep thin slabs (F9) to a point thirty feet left of the summit. NCCS IV, F9.

Jim McCarthy

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