American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, Southeast Spur of South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Mount Hunter, Southeast Spur of South Face. Our expedition was composed of Lincoln Stoller, William Nicholson,* David M. Sweet and me.* We succeeded in climbing about one-third of the ridge before acknowledging defeat. The decision to withdraw was reached after we had coped with extremely bad weather, difficult climbing conditions, lack of suitable campsites and finally a 400-foot rock wall overhang. The latter would have required direct-aid and free climbing of the highest degree of skill, even by warm-weather Yosemite standards. Had the weather been more stable, the rock face in better condition and the descent more promising, and had sufficient rope been available to fix a rope, the wall might have been climbed.

Peter Metcalf

* Recipients of American Alpine Club Mountaineering Fellowship grants.

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