American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Southeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1978

Foraker, Southeast Ridge. Günther Fluhrer, Herbert Karasek, Dr. Fritz Weidman and I climbed Foraker’s southeast ridge alpine-style, following the 1963 route, from Base Camp on the west side of the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was above the toe where the traverse begins and Camp II nearly at the same spot as in 1963. The upper part of the steep ice slope and hanging glacier below Camp II provided some interesting ice climbing. There was a big schrund all across the slope. We could get around it at the right end, but we got exciting ice-climbing up an almost vertical snow wall and climbing on a very steep, sharply corniced rotten snow spur below a wide cornice. After eleven hours we dug a snow cave for Camp II. On July 26 the weather was beautiful and we found it reasonable to try for the summit. A steep, blue-ice slope took us to the sharply corniced ridge, which we followed endlessly, reaching the summit at seven P.M. On the descent, at the beginning of the ridge, where it is still wide, we suddenly found ourselves in thick fog. Around ten P.M. we had to dig in where we were. We had to stay there for three nights as the storm raged on. Our food ran low. On July 28 there was sunshine and bitter cold and we were able to descend.

Hermann Huber, Sektion Bayerland, Deutscher Alpenverein

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