El Gran Trono Blanco, Northeast Face, Sierra Juárez, Baja California. A new climb via the pillar on the northeast fact was begun by Rob Dellinger, Brian Gregory and me. Four pitches were fixed during some exhilarating free and aid climbing on good cracks. During the return hike early the next morning, for the final push on the long route, Rob slipped and pierced his hand badly with a century plant. We pulled the gear off and returned to urban society and medical help. The successful climb was done about two weeks later by Lincoln Stoller, Mike Warburton and me, in April. A new start was made about 300 yards north, but the middle and upper portions of the route were planned to be the same. The ascent was done in 1½ days, without bivouac. There was some excellent free climbing and occasional aid. I recall one frustrating pitch, which should have been done directly but was gained by a traverse from a chimney, and finally ended using three ropes (in sequence) for leading. The rock was excellent; the only drawback was some bush on the central portion. A cold wind hit us on the summit crest, and fresh snow greeted our return hike to the car (very unique for April).

Fred Beckey