North America, Greenland, Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland

Publication Year: 1977.

Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. Our group of 21 left Italy on July 20 and traveled by plane, helicopter and whale boat to reach the zone of operations on the 23rd. Ice packs prevented our getting to the original objective, the Umiamako Nuna peninsula and we were left on the neighboring Akuliaruseq peninsula. Favored by good weather in the first days, we divided into three groups and climbed all the peaks on the true right bank of the Johannes Brae (glacier), peaks between 5700 and 6400 feet and some of UIAA difficulty V+. On August 1 an Eskimo motorboat took Toni Masé, Tarcisio Beltrami, Giorgio Volta, Marcello Andreolli, Giuseppe Villa and Roberto Bazzi to the Umiamako peninsula, where in six days they all climbed five unclimbed mountains between 7484 and 7512 feet, including the highest on the peninsula. The other members of the group, of whom nearly all climbed a number of peaks, were Dr. Francesco Cavazzuti, Clemente and Laura Maffei, Walter Avogadri, Dr. Enrico Bellotti, Gilberto Bertolani, Lodovico Gualandi, Flavio, Riccardo and Ugo Lorenzi, Enzo Giovanazzi, Heinz Steinkötter, Gianfranco Miglio, Michele Ongari and I as leader. In all we climbed 40 peaks, of which 32 were first ascents.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano