Gladsheim Peak, Valhalla Group, Southwest Face, Selkirks. On September 10, Craig Martinson and I climbed a new route west of the three existing ones on the south and southwest faces of Gladsheim, highest of the Valhalla peaks. The first roped pitch, in a steep dihedral, proved dirty and awkward; I found the only good protection was a small tree at the end. Craig had similar problems on the next run-out, with deceptive difficulties. The moss then ran its limit, the rock was more bubbly and the cracks superb. Five interesting continuous pitches, the last ascending through a narrow chimney slot, brought us to easier terrain. We reached a broad, open gully 200 feet higher, where we unroped before scrambling on to the summit. NCCS III, F8.

Fred Beckey