North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar

Publication Year: 1977.

Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar. On July 18 and 19 Mike Eastburn and I did a new variant on the north face of Mount Temple. Starting at three P.M. on the north-ridge route, we climbed the first 1500 feet on the ridge on its crest to the open bowl beneath the ice cliffs. We went directly up the bowl and bivouacked at the base of the gray bands that cross the entire face. The following morning we climbed the central pillar of the bands on difficult but sound rock. We continued to the base of the lower ice cliff and climbed an ice gully on its right margin. We were able to gain the sérac ridge that separates the upper and lower ice cliffs and continued to the summit glacier with moderate ice climbing. NCCS IV, F7.

R. Dane Burns, Equipe de Danse de Coeur d’Alene